[TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259
stevek at jmr.com
Fri Feb 2 16:24:26 EST 2007
Jameco has them for about $2.50 each here:
Be careful to order "83-1SP," and not 83-1SP-1050, which is the "Astroplate"
version that isn't very easy to solder...
From: Garry [mailto:g.drummond at verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 1:14 PM
To: Steve Katz
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259
Hi Steve and thanks for the reply. Do you know who has the best price on
the Amphenol 83-1SP's? I'll order some right away!
Steve Katz wrote:
>Amphenol still manufactures and sells real, honest PL-259s, like the P/N
>83-1SP. They are like the old ones you're familiar and comfortable with.
>Amphenol is the patent holder on the design, although the protections
>provided for ran out many years ago.
>I'd stay away from the Amphenol "RFX" PL-259s, which can be found with a
>Teflon dielectric but not a silver plated connector body: They are
>"Astroplate," which is a bright nickel finish that does not wet very well
>with ordinary solder. The old-fashioned 83-1SP, which has been around for
>50+ years, has a phenolic dielectric but a silver-plated body and is very
>easy to solder, it wets like a sponge.
>From: Garry [mailto:g.drummond at verizon.net]
>Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 8:22 AM
>To: towertalk at contesting.com
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Soldering RG213 to PL259
>This may have been discussed previously and if so I apologize for
>waisting space. I recently purchased a bag of 10 PL-259's from BuxComm.
>These are silver/teflon with a gold center pin. I have been out of ham
>radio for the last 16 years and haven't soldered any connectors since
>before 1990. I used to cut the outer jacket to the proper length, tin
>the braid then solder the braid through the 4 holes on the side then
>solder the center conductor. Back then, most PL259's were made in the
>USA and the area where the holes are was reduced in diameter so that the
>braid made good mechanical contact and would solder well if good quality
>cable was used.
>With these newer connectors, I find the diameter of the connector is not
>reduced in the area where the holes are so there is a gap between the
>inside of the connector and the braid of tinned coax. You can't fold the
>braid back over the outer insulation and get it that far in the
>connector as the fit is too tight. I have seen examples where some are
>soldering the braid to the outside of the PL259 but I like doing it
>from the inside as I used to do years ago.
>Does anyone know of a way to work with these newer PL259's? I wonder if
>all PL259's are made this way now?
>Garry - WR4R
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