[TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Long shank U-Bolts

Sun Jan 4 09:46:45 EST 2015

Grant, Thank you for the graphic description of potential injury.  I was 
getting a little lax in my drill press technique, clearing chips and 
such.  I have had several close calls but no serious injury. After 
having taken the warning comments to heart a New Years resolution has 
been made.  I will do what is required to be safe and keep my ability to 
count to 10.

Thanks, guys.

Patrick  NJ5G

On 1/3/2015 1:50 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
> One additional comment re SAFETY around rotating machines:  NEVER wear 
> gloves!!  Surgeons are great at putting fingers back on or suturing 
> gashes, but it is often amputation if they encounter a "degloving 
> injury".  These are caused when the tissue is removed around the 
> finger.  That can happen when the glove material catches on the drill 
> bit, lathe chuck, mill chuck etc. and the glove finger acts like a 
> Chinese finger torture device, stripping all the tissue from the 
> finger.  ugh.  Or worse the glove strips some of the hand. really ugh.
>
> The chips and swarf in drilling, milling, and turning operations 
> should be managed with a chip hook about 12 to 18" long, coolant 
> flushing, or air blast.  Better yet, "peck drill" so that short chips 
> are made.  Ideally, a lathe tool should make small chips not stringy 
> ones as these can "bird nest" and become exceedingly hazardous as they 
> spin around with the chuck.
>
> Grant KZ1W
>
>
> On 1/3/2015 12:05 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
>> On 1/1/2015 8:56 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
>>
>> If he has access to a milling machine or knows a machinist, saddle 
>> clamps are easy to make, particularly if you can find some relatively 
>> small pieces of 1" plate and you can make the flat long enough for 
>> bolt holes instead of notches that require a backing plate.
>>
>> I realize not everyone has a mill, but they are relatively cheap on 
>> the used market. About 40 years ago, the company I worked for 
>> purchased 2 of the same model used that I have, but theirs were 
>> strictly mechanical feeds except the quill.  They only had about 5 
>> speeds available by changing the belt locations on the pulleys. They 
>> paid about $7900 each. I paid less than $3000 IIRC.   There isn't a 
>> better drill press made.   The mill is RIGID and makes drilling 
>> "round" holes in precise locations with far less risk of bits hanging 
>> and flying parts.  They also make drilling holes on a circle 
>> relatively easy.  They also give you a reason to refresh that high 
>> school Trig.
>>
>> A keyless chuck, a set of collets, a few end mills, a vise, and a 
>> little instruction  are about all you need.
>> Used mills with power feeds and digital readouts on the X, Y, and 
>> sometimes ZS axis for around $3000 while strictly mechanical with 
>> quil feed can be found between 1 and 2 thousand dollars. can be found.
>>
>> A local high school had inexpensive classes on using Lathes, mills, 
>> shapers, surface grinders and welding.  It would be a good investment 
>> for the mechanically inclined even if you don't have any machine 
>> tools.  You can learn a lot of possibilities. "Beware" of Fly 
>> Cutters!  The first time you see one in operation you will know why I 
>> say that.
>> Speaking of Fly Cutters.  They let you cut large holes with smooth 
>> edges, but cutting holes in thin materials with one takes special 
>> techniques and precautions.
>>
>> One last precaution about working with metals.  When the shavings 
>> start peeling off never, ever try to brush them away with a hand even 
>> with leather gloves  Those things are sharp and if the bit, or what 
>> ever grabs them the same time you do, those shavings can removes 
>> finger(s) so quickly and cleanly you won't know it happened at the 
>> moment.    The mess is likely to alert you before the pain sets in.
>>
>> Of course they also require maintenance. Mine is variable speed and 
>> the head needs rebuilding.  Some where, some one (not me) hung a 
>> cutter on low speed and sheared the key on the quill.  It works fine 
>> for what I do and the collets fit tight enough there's no slipping.   
>> Oh! It weighs 1800 to 2000# so make sure to set it where you want it 
>> when it's delivered and you have help.  I moved mine the length of 
>> the shop, then 15 feet South, turned it around and backed it into 
>> place...alone and with no power tools.  I made a platform of 2 X 12s 
>> and used lengths of 3/4 inch pipe as rollers and a railroad pry-bar 
>> for power. <:-))  So you know why I make that recommendation<LOL>.
>>
>> 73
>> \
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>
>>> Using 2 saddle clamps as you describe is a good idea. I use that to
>>> support/clamp masts on top of a thrust bearing.
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> I wasn't born in Saskatchewan, but I got here as soon as I could.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>
>>> On 12/30/2014 5:48 PM, Byron Tatum wrote:
>>>
>>> It might be a little pricy, but how about 2 saddle clamps used with a
>>> pair of straight bolts.  If worried about the bolts slipping out, they
>>> do make flat metal plates with 2 holes likely of a size you need to use
>>> for backing plates.
>>>
>>> 73
>>>
>>> Roger (K8RI)
>>
>>
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