[TowerTalk] [Bulk] Re: Long shank U-Bolts

[Herbert Schoenbohm]

And also very important in preventing finger degloving is to never wear 
a ring....never. Also *never* go without a gloves when climbing towers.  
A simple slip before the safety belt or fall arrest harness saves you, 
the slightest protrusion of a bolt or nut can deglove a finger.


Herb, KV4FZ
On 1/4/2015 10:46 AM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
> Grant, Thank you for the graphic description of potential injury.  I 
> was getting a little lax in my drill press technique, clearing chips 
> and such.  I have had several close calls but no serious injury. After 
> having taken the warning comments to heart a New Years resolution has 
> been made.  I will do what is required to be safe and keep my ability 
> to count to 10.
>
> Thanks, guys.
>
> Patrick  NJ5G
>
>
> On 1/3/2015 1:50 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
>> One additional comment re SAFETY around rotating machines:  NEVER 
>> wear gloves!!  Surgeons are great at putting fingers back on or 
>> suturing gashes, but it is often amputation if they encounter a 
>> "degloving injury".  These are caused when the tissue is removed 
>> around the finger.  That can happen when the glove material catches 
>> on the drill bit, lathe chuck, mill chuck etc. and the glove finger 
>> acts like a Chinese finger torture device, stripping all the tissue 
>> from the finger.  ugh.  Or worse the glove strips some of the hand. 
>> really ugh.
>>
>> The chips and swarf in drilling, milling, and turning operations 
>> should be managed with a chip hook about 12 to 18" long, coolant 
>> flushing, or air blast.  Better yet, "peck drill" so that short chips 
>> are made.  Ideally, a lathe tool should make small chips not stringy 
>> ones as these can "bird nest" and become exceedingly hazardous as 
>> they spin around with the chuck.
>>
>> Grant KZ1W
>>
>>
>> On 1/3/2015 12:05 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
>>> On 1/1/2015 8:56 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
>>>
>>> If he has access to a milling machine or knows a machinist, saddle 
>>> clamps are easy to make, particularly if you can find some 
>>> relatively small pieces of 1" plate and you can make the flat long 
>>> enough for bolt holes instead of notches that require a backing plate.
>>>
>>> I realize not everyone has a mill, but they are relatively cheap on 
>>> the used market. About 40 years ago, the company I worked for 
>>> purchased 2 of the same model used that I have, but theirs were 
>>> strictly mechanical feeds except the quill.  They only had about 5 
>>> speeds available by changing the belt locations on the pulleys. They 
>>> paid about $7900 each. I paid less than $3000 IIRC.   There isn't a 
>>> better drill press made.   The mill is RIGID and makes drilling 
>>> "round" holes in precise locations with far less risk of bits 
>>> hanging and flying parts.  They also make drilling holes on a circle 
>>> relatively easy.  They also give you a reason to refresh that high 
>>> school Trig.
>>>
>>> A keyless chuck, a set of collets, a few end mills, a vise, and a 
>>> little instruction  are about all you need.
>>> Used mills with power feeds and digital readouts on the X, Y, and 
>>> sometimes ZS axis for around $3000 while strictly mechanical with 
>>> quil feed can be found between 1 and 2 thousand dollars. can be found.
>>>
>>> A local high school had inexpensive classes on using Lathes, mills, 
>>> shapers, surface grinders and welding.  It would be a good 
>>> investment for the mechanically inclined even if you don't have any 
>>> machine tools.  You can learn a lot of possibilities. "Beware" of 
>>> Fly Cutters!  The first time you see one in operation you will know 
>>> why I say that.
>>> Speaking of Fly Cutters.  They let you cut large holes with smooth 
>>> edges, but cutting holes in thin materials with one takes special 
>>> techniques and precautions.
>>>
>>> One last precaution about working with metals.  When the shavings 
>>> start peeling off never, ever try to brush them away with a hand 
>>> even with leather gloves  Those things are sharp and if the bit, or 
>>> what ever grabs them the same time you do, those shavings can 
>>> removes finger(s) so quickly and cleanly you won't know it happened 
>>> at the moment.    The mess is likely to alert you before the pain 
>>> sets in.
>>>
>>> Of course they also require maintenance. Mine is variable speed and 
>>> the head needs rebuilding.  Some where, some one (not me) hung a 
>>> cutter on low speed and sheared the key on the quill.  It works fine 
>>> for what I do and the collets fit tight enough there's no 
>>> slipping.   Oh! It weighs 1800 to 2000# so make sure to set it where 
>>> you want it when it's delivered and you have help.  I moved mine the 
>>> length of the shop, then 15 feet South, turned it around and backed 
>>> it into place...alone and with no power tools.  I made a platform of 
>>> 2 X 12s and used lengths of 3/4 inch pipe as rollers and a railroad 
>>> pry-bar for power. <:-))  So you know why I make that 
>>> recommendation<LOL>.
>>>
>>> 73
>>> \
>>> Roger (K8RI)
>>>
>>>> Using 2 saddle clamps as you describe is a good idea. I use that to
>>>> support/clamp masts on top of a thrust bearing.
>>>>
>>>> Doug
>>>>
>>>> I wasn't born in Saskatchewan, but I got here as soon as I could.
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>
>>>> On 12/30/2014 5:48 PM, Byron Tatum wrote:
>>>>
>>>> It might be a little pricy, but how about 2 saddle clamps used with a
>>>> pair of straight bolts.  If worried about the bolts slipping out, they
>>>> do make flat metal plates with 2 holes likely of a size you need to 
>>>> use
>>>> for backing plates.
>>>>
>>>> 73
>>>>
>>>> Roger (K8RI)
>>>
>>>
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