[TowerTalk] Joining two perpendicular wires

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

Greetings again so soon y'all,. 

Further to my last, lest anyone think I wasn't paying attention to Steve's
original question, I stopped short of stating the obvious I guess.(according
to some private emailers)

Because he's mentioned 2 intersecting wires and not a straight connection
(as in my example) if he used 'my' method, his splice would still be like an
"X" (probably how it is now),  but just double my example and make it into a
basket shape (2 U's at 90* to one another, solder blob at the very bottom of
the basket) with a rope "X" across the top of the basket to take the strain
off the connection & solder blob.  Hard to describe in words, but easy to
see if the reflector would permit attachments , which, yes, I know,  it does
not.

I think I would put up my "Double-U" rope strain relief against any kind of
heavy metal split bolt (Unless I just don't understand how you all are
installing these split bolts onto 2 wires at 90* to one another) because
won't there be a 90* sharp bend for 2 of your wires?)

Anyways.wishing you luck with whatever method you try Steve.

Mike VE9AA

p.s.- install/attach the ropes to the wires any old way you like.black tape,
loops in the copper with rope tied, etc.  I've done it many ways depending
on the size/shape of the wire/coax/ladderline/etc you are trying to install
the strain relief on.   You could even conceivably do it with a beefy black
common truckers bungy cord and get rid of the rope/tape altogether.
Anything to take the strain off the soldered connection might work.  OK,
I'll be quiet now ! ;-D

Hi Steve, 

 

Tnx for the Q's this w/e.

 

I am not sure about the split-bolts some are mentioning. I only ever used

them a lifetime ago when I was an apprentice electrician. Copper/Bronze is

pretty beefy to be hanging in the air bee-bobbing around, but with no

experience I couldn't say with certainty. I don't know if I would want more

weight hanging on my wires, but lots are mentioning it, so maybe it'll work.

 

What I do when I have to join dissimilar wires that are suspended in the air

is usually make a small U-shaped loop and take the stress off the connection

and bridge the gap with some kind of rope.  So the bottom of the "U" would

be the soldered connection and a straight line across the top of the U would

be rope.

 

For example:  My ZS6BKW has 450 Ohm ladder line soldered directly to coax a

few feet off the ground, which WILL break in the wind after just a few

months or so, but I have that junction essentially under no stress now by

adding about 12" of 3/16ths braided nylon rope attached 7-8" back from the

soldered junction on the ladder line and also attached a 7-8" back on the

coax. The U of coax/ladderline is probably 14-18" long or so and the top

rope bridge is likely 12" long.  That sucker blows in the hilltop wind here

in NB 24/7/365 and survives -30*C -> + 30*C temps and has never broken the

very weak solder connection (at the bottom of the "U") however many years

it's been up.  Five or Six now I think, maybe more.  My previous hard

soldered connections broke 3 or 4 times in a single year until I wised up

and took relief off of the solder connection.  Unlike a split-bolt, the rope

is light and provides a small amount of shock absorption as well.  Looks

like heck, but RF doesn't care-hi

 

I have in a pinch many years ago used wood or plexi to bridge connections

but found rope very cheap and not prone to breaking like brittle materials.

Also tends to gather less radial ice.

 

FWIW

 

Mike VE9AA

 

 

This may seem to be an easy problem, but the solutions I have tried have

 

not held up.

 

 

I need to electrically and mechanically join 2 perpendicular pieces of

 

bare, #12 copper wire. They will be subject to wind forces which have

 

repeatedly broken mere solder joints.

 

 

Suggestions ?

 

 

Steve, N2IC

 

 

Mike, Coreen & Corey

 

Keswick Ridge, NB

 

 

 

Mike, Coreen & Corey

Keswick Ridge, NB