[UK-CONTEST] CC April CW TX Bandwidth

[Clive Whelan]

Ian

Well myself and GW3RIH must have been very lucky in getting a couple of 
good 1000MPs then, because we lived 500 yards apart and both ran 400w, 
me using an Alpha 78 and Wes using a TL922, and we could operate within 
10kHz of each other on 14Mhz , without insurmountable problems problems. 
You don't suppose that could have been because we didn't overdrive the 
amplifiers do you? ;-)

73


Clive
GW3NJW

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
> Colin wrote:
>   
>> I am not aware of causing problems with my old FT1000MP so if anyone 
>> has noticed clicks from me please let me know.
>>
>>     
>
> Congratulations for having the courage to ask in public, Colin.
>
> Here are some sound samples of what unmodified FT1000s *could* sound 
> like (bottom of page):
> http://w8ji.com/keyclicks.htm
>
> There does seem to be some variability between individual rigs, but even 
> the best of them are clicky and the worst are downright horrible.
>
>   
>> What should the FT1000MP owner look for to see if it has been modified?
>>
>>     
>
> Look for extra components under the IF board and the RF board - either 
> this mod:
> http://w8ji.com/keyclick_mp.htm
>
> or the simpler Inrad version:
> http://www.inrad.net/files/Pubs/About%20Key%20Clicks.pdf
>
> Both mods are very similar, and involve extra components in the same 
> locations underneath the RF and the IF boards. The easiest place to 
> check is under the IF board.
>
> Step 10 on the W8JI page shows where to look for the mod under the IF 
> board. The location is in parallel with C2148 (same number in all models 
> of MP, but these small capacitors are not individually marked under the 
> boards). The difference is that the Inrad mod uses just two fixed 
> components (100K and 0.047uF) while the W8JI allows some individual 
> adjustment and can give better results.
>
> The other part of the mod is underneath the RF board, and is the same in 
> both cases: a 0.1uF cap across C1216 (in the original MP, C1004 in MkV 
> and Field).  This is harder to get at, but if you can see that the IF 
> board mod has been done then it's a safe bet that the RF board will have 
> been done too.
>
> If you do need to get at the underside of the RF board, W8JI has 
> provided detailed photo instructions. When you actually arrive at 
> C1216/1004, simply solder the 0.1uF in parallel with the existing cap 
> (no need to bring out a wire lead like W8JI did).
>
> The mods aren't actually difficult - it's mostly a matter of confidence 
> - but they do need to be done.
>
>
>
>