[UK-CONTEST] CC April CW TX Bandwidth

[Clive GM3POI]

Colin for what its' worth the W8JI mod seems to give better results than the 
inrad.
So while your dipping in the rig do that one by preference. 73 Clive GM3POI
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Colin" <colin at g3psm.net>
To: <uk-contest at contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [UK-CONTEST] CC April CW TX Bandwidth


> Thanks for the tips guys.
>
> No one has actually said I have key clicks but time permitting I'll take
> a look at the two boards.
>
> 73
>
> Colin, G3PSM
>
> Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
>> Colin wrote:
>>
>>> I am not aware of causing problems with my old FT1000MP so if anyone
>>> has noticed clicks from me please let me know.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Congratulations for having the courage to ask in public, Colin.
>>
>> Here are some sound samples of what unmodified FT1000s *could* sound
>> like (bottom of page):
>> http://w8ji.com/keyclicks.htm
>>
>> There does seem to be some variability between individual rigs, but even
>> the best of them are clicky and the worst are downright horrible.
>>
>>
>>> What should the FT1000MP owner look for to see if it has been modified?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Look for extra components under the IF board and the RF board - either
>> this mod:
>> http://w8ji.com/keyclick_mp.htm
>>
>> or the simpler Inrad version:
>> http://www.inrad.net/files/Pubs/About%20Key%20Clicks.pdf
>>
>> Both mods are very similar, and involve extra components in the same
>> locations underneath the RF and the IF boards. The easiest place to
>> check is under the IF board.
>>
>> Step 10 on the W8JI page shows where to look for the mod under the IF
>> board. The location is in parallel with C2148 (same number in all models
>> of MP, but these small capacitors are not individually marked under the
>> boards). The difference is that the Inrad mod uses just two fixed
>> components (100K and 0.047uF) while the W8JI allows some individual
>> adjustment and can give better results.
>>
>> The other part of the mod is underneath the RF board, and is the same in
>> both cases: a 0.1uF cap across C1216 (in the original MP, C1004 in MkV
>> and Field).  This is harder to get at, but if you can see that the IF
>> board mod has been done then it's a safe bet that the RF board will have
>> been done too.
>>
>> If you do need to get at the underside of the RF board, W8JI has
>> provided detailed photo instructions. When you actually arrive at
>> C1216/1004, simply solder the 0.1uF in parallel with the existing cap
>> (no need to bring out a wire lead like W8JI did).
>>
>> The mods aren't actually difficult - it's mostly a matter of confidence
>> - but they do need to be done.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> */Colin J. Thomas, G3PSM/*
>
> */External Relations Committee Chairman,/*
>
> */International Amateur Radio Union, Region 1/*
>
> */Tel:     +44 8048 2749/*
>
> */GSM:  +44 7759 548982/*
>
> */Email: colin at g3psm.net/*
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> UK-Contest mailing list
> UK-Contest at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/uk-contest