Your advice so far has been good.
If you do a lot of 160 and 80 meter work, you might
want to replace the door knob load padding caps
with micas from Ameritron. The Heath door knobs
get hot and drift in value. In my opinion, the little plate
blocking caps are not robust enough for 12-10 meter
work, but thousands are in use. I have always added
Rich's grid fuse resistor scheme when repairing SB-1000's.
No tube failures to date that I know of.
For a super-fast quick and easy QSK, the Ameritron board
will fit right in where the Heath board mounts; about 5 times
faster than relays, and an easy mod. Or, you can go with the
Ameritron QSK-5, which is a stand-alone outboard unit that
you can use on all your amps with a switching scheme to
select desired amp.
410 VZ CR 4903
Ben Wheeler, TX 75754
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Rosenthal" <email@example.com>
To: "Ian White, G3SEK" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [AMPS] SB-1000 mods?
> "Ian White, G3SEK" wrote:
> > I'm presently repairing a Heath SB-1000. Are there any modifications
> > that would be worthwhile while the cover is off... besides a step-start
> > and a glitch resistor, that is?
> I replaced the plate choke in mine with an AL80B choke purchased from
> for about $25. The original plate choke had a resonance near 17 meters. I
> added a corona washer to the bandswitch lug that goes to the hot side of the
> 160-meter padder capacitor (I also had to replace the contact which was
> I never had a reoccurrence of this). Be sure to check the value of the carbon
> resistor in the parasitic suppressor! I also added a vacuum relay and reed
> relay for QSK (got the kit from Rich and the v. relay from Alan Bond).
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
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