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[AMPS] SB-220 Meter Movements

To: <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: [AMPS] SB-220 Meter Movements
From: 2@mail.vcnet.com (Rich...)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 06:09:25 -0800


>
>re: sb-220 meter movements. 
>-
>If Carl is still around, you would be able to get an 
>entire SB-220 replacement input assembly from 
>him.  Last known working Email address: 
>k1mh@juno.com if memory serves.   I might be 
>able to supply very small quantifies of the exact 
>or very similar coil forms used in the SB-220 
>should Carl not have them.  There are a number 
>of "conversion to six meter" guys out there that 
>should be able to help you. 
>-
>The average movement value for the SB-220 is 
>200uA    I have original Heath meter movements 
>for $50 each.  I bought them for my own use but 
>have many spares.  I've never advertised them 
>as I'm not a dealer, nor do I think the price is 
>cheap enough to attract much attention, but I 
>do have them for people who want original 
>matching Heathkit meter parts. 
>-
>Martin Tippin is selling SB-220 front panels on 
>Ebay for $50 each.  Normally I would just live 
>with the unsightly holes many hams have 
>butchered into SB-220's to add an unneeded 
>relay bypass switch...  but some of the folks 
>I do work for are willing to pay for "complete 
>restoration. " 

?  A "complete restoration" means removing:
1.  the step-start mod  (the amplifier will once again have too much 
inrush current for the on/off switch, which will eventually destroy the 
switch)
2.  lower VHF -Q suppressors and using original Heath suppressors  (which 
increases 110MHz gain - which ups the chance of intermittent parasitic 
oscillation at 110MHz) 
3.  the high speed switching mod and reinstalling the original too-slow 
relay - (causes the amplifier to once again hotswitch with modern 
transceivers)
4.  the glitch protection components (increases the chance of blown 
meters and shorted 3-500Zs. 

?  In my opinion, assuming that higher-ranking humans don't make mistakes 
is a mistake.
For example, I own a 1973 Dodge Maxivan.  The electronic ignition unit is 
mounted in rhe cool airstream in front of the radiator at the end of a 
cable connected to the engine.  I carry a spare unit but so far I haven't 
needed it.   In the mid-1980s, Ford had a "Better Idea" and decided that 
they could save costs on wire and connectors by mounting the electronic 
ignition unit on the engine.  Thus, the electronic ignition unit was 
exposed to hot air from the radiator.   As you have quite likely already 
guessed, Ford's electronic ignition unit was prone to die in hot weather. 
 When this happened the engine would stop - which can be a dangerous 
thing on freeways.   As a result, people were getting killed.  Even 
though Ford dealers had been reporting the problem back to Ford for over 
12-years, the higher-ups decided to not correct the problem.  Eventually 
NHTSA ordered a recall.  The cost will be c, $2,9 billion.  The Ford CEO 
was subsequently fired by Ford's Board of Directors.  Without NHTSA, 
people would probably still be buying Fords that have a potentially fatal 
defect.  
--  Anybody remember the Ford Pinto/exploding gas tank/family crematorium 
on wheels?  And Ford knew about the fire problem before the Pinto went 
into production.  Meanwhile, back in L.A., Henry Radio was building 
3-500Z amplifiers that ran c. 5.9V on the filaments.  

>... 

cheers, Skipp
>-
>From: "ARNE  GJERNING" <gjerning@flash.net>
>1.   Does anyone have available a 20M (L3) and 15M (L2) input coils they
>might part with?
>
>
>
>2.   What is the full scale meter movements for both the plate and
>multimeter?  I have 2 open meters and need to replace them.  Original
>Heath
>meters not necessasry for my plans.  I will only need to monitor plate
>and
>grid current.
>
>73 de Arne N7KA
>
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>


-  R. L. Measures, a.k.a. Rich..., 805.386.3734,AG6K, 
www.vcnet.com/measures.  
end


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