I believe this info is on Rich Measures web site, at least it was when I
asked the same question. 73, Dan, N5AR
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jones" <rfjones@ris.net>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 8:03 AM
Subject: [Amps] TL-922A 10 Meter Mods
> Some are pre-wired for 10 meters and all you need to do is remove a screw
> stop on the band switch.This allows the switch to travel one step past the
> 15 meter position.Others require modifications and additional parts.This
> modification is available on the net but I'm not sure where.Maybe someone
> will point you there.
>
> My TL-922A just required the removal of the screw.It works great on 10 and
> 12 meters.
>
> Good luck and 73,
>
> Bob
> W0OXJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <amps-request@contesting.com>
> To: <amps@contesting.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 6:59 AM
> Subject: Amps Digest, Vol 12, Issue 17
>
>
> > Send Amps mailing list submissions to
> > amps@contesting.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > amps-request@contesting.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > amps-owner@contesting.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Amps digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: SB-200 Output Power Too High? (John)
> > 2. Re: Re: SB-220 on 220V (Michael Tope)
> > 3. RE 220
> > 4. Re: Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was SB-220
> > on 220V) (Gary Schafer)
> > 5. TL922 (ZL2AAA)
> > 6. Sockets for GU-84B (Mark Hill)
> > 7. RE: arco variable capacitor data (David Harmon)
> > 8. SB-200 parts? (Kenneth Cechura)
> > 9. Re: Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was SB-220
> > on 220V) (R.Measures)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:54:05 -0500
> > From: "John" <hydroaction@cfl.rr.com>
> > To: <amps@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] SB-200 Output Power Too High?
> > Message-ID: <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0@cfl.rr.com>
> > References: <20031207.053336.-20331.0.wb8jkr@juno.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="Windows-1252"
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 1
> >
> > My SB-200 With new cetron tubes does 750 + on 75, 40 , 20 meters
> .....about 650 + on
> > the rest. this is on 220volts and measured on the bird meter. When my
line
> voltage is
> > real high it will do another 50 watts. It has been going strong for over
5
> years
> >
> > john
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 16:43:44 -0800
> > From: "Michael Tope" <W4EF@dellroy.com>
> > To: <rlm@mail.somis.org>, "Dave Haupt" <emailw8nf@yahoo.com>,
> > " AMPS" <amps@contesting.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: SB-220 on 220V
> > Message-ID: <012c01c3bd24$5579bde0$0100a8c0@1800XP>
> > References: <03Dec7.000323-0800_pst.303970-8705+541@lmg.ahnet.net>
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 2
> >
> > Roughly Zero Volts DC - since the neutral and safety ground
> > are connected together at the AC mains service entrance.
> > If you want to do things per NEC, you aren't supposed to
> > let the chassis connection carry any return current, therefore
> > the neutral wire shouldn't be connected to chassis if its
> > also carrying load return current (as in the case of the Henry
> > 2K-D). If you don't give a hoot about NEC, then you can run
> > the load return current through the third wire chassis
> > connection if it makes you happy. Even if its a green wire,
> > the electrons won't care (unlike a building inspector).
> >
> > 73 de Mike, W4EF.................................................
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <rlm@mail.somis.org>
> > To: "Michael Tope" <W4EF@dellroy.com>; "Dave Haupt"
<emailw8nf@yahoo.com>;
> "
> > AMPS" <amps@contesting.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 12:02 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: SB-220 on 220V
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > >I agree with Dave. I recently wired an SB-221 for
> > > >240V service. It was wired exactly as Dave
> > > >describes (third wire is chassis to AC
> > > >mains safety ground connection). There is no
> > > >connection between the amplifier and the AC
> > > >mains neutral.
> > >
> > > ** If there is no connection between the two. what is the potential
> > > difference between the neutral and ground?
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:41:24 EST
> > From: Ku4uk@aol.com
> > To: amps@contesting.com
> > Subject: [Amps] RE 220
> > Message-ID: <135.28d216e6.2d053ed4@aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 3
> >
> > Sorry I got this started on wiring the SB-220. Maybe we have beat it to
> death
> > now. To say anything is just to repeat everything that has been said.
But
> > have received a few email. That say they dont use the neutral wire. Just
> the two
> > hot wires for 220 v. It seems to me if you dont use the third wire to
> chassis.
> > which goes back to breaker box. If there is a short to chassis. the
> breaker
> > may not trip. And you could become ground if you touch metal. My breaker
> box
> > has a bare strip for all neutral wires. It has a heavy wire going from
> strip to
> > 8 ft ground rod and meter base. which is also grounded to power pole
> ground.
> > The third wire going to chassis on the sb220 does not carry current. but
I
> > would be afraid not to use it. Be safe, move on. long live CW.
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2003 22:18:03 -0500
> > From: Gary Schafer <garyschafer@comcast.net>
> > To: "R.Measures" <r@somis.org>
> > Cc: AMPS <amps@contesting.com>
> > Cc: Dave Haupt <emailw8nf@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was
> SB-220
> > on 220V)
> > Message-ID: <3FD3ED6B.1000608@comcast.net>
> > References: <20031207094925.91A7731A9E8@dayton.akorn.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > Precedence: list
> > Reply-To: garyschafer@comcast.net
> > Message: 4
> >
> >
> >
> > R.Measures wrote:
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > ** The neutral in the 240V outlet for the amplifier is shared with
> every
> > > 120V and every 240V circuit in the house because All of the neutrals
> > > connect to the neutral/ground terminal strip in the breaker-box. If I
> am
> > > fortunate, it is that I know Ohm's law good enough to get by.
> > >
> > > __ Which is what I do on the 240v outlet for the
tetrodes-with-handles
> > > mains outlet. // The imbalance current is c. 85mA-avg in the
> > > neutral/ground because I utilize one side of the mains-neutral
potential
> > > to power a half-wave rectified, C-filtered 160VDC supply for operating
> > > the high-speed T/R relays. Although there are some who would be
alarmed
> > > about the potential-drop in 99' of #6 wire at 85mA, I am not one of
> them.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Rich, I am sure that you know and understand this stuff but some others
> > may not.
> >
> > 1. The biggest reason for having separate ground and neutral wires is to
> > insure safety in case the neutral should open (in the case of a common
> > ground/neutral system like you use.
> > Even your 85 ma that you are running on your common ground/neutral line
> > can be a hazard. If the ground/neutral line opens anywhere you will have
> > 120 volts at chassis through the transformer primary with enough current
> > to cause electrocution if you are between chassis and some other ground.
> >
> > In your system it may not be too likely to happen. However in many
> > wiring installations it can easily happen.
> >
> > One house that I owned years ago (was a brand new house too) had
> > problems with some of the wiring. Upon further looking I found that just
> > about every outlet in the house had the wires wrapped around the screw
> > terminals loosely as you normally would, but the screws were never
> > turned down! Most of the outlets worked properly as far as I knew. I
> > would have never known if I had not opened them up and looked at them.
> > That is unless I had a fire first!
> > Suppose in that house I had a 220 outlet with only 3 wires used as you
> > do above. I could have very easily had a poor (guaranteed to be poor!)
> > neutral/ground lead.
> >
> > If your 220 line had it's ground/neutral connection wired like that and
> > you were using it as a neutral/ground you could very easily have a "hot
> > chassis". I have also seen "electrician" installations where the lugs in
> > the breaker panel where not tightened. Wires slipped into hole but
> > never tightened down. they make a connection but not a reliable one.
> >
> > It is easy to have a poor outlet connection too. Fingers in the plug not
> > making proper contact. Especially on older / well used outlets.
> >
> > If any of these things happen on your neutral/ground line then you are
> > sure to have a "hot" chassis because you are asking that line to carry
> > current that is tied to the chassis.
> >
> > But if you have a separate neutral and ground line then even if you
> > would have a poor connection on ANY of the lines (even the ground line)
> > you would not have a "hot" chassis. Unless of course there were multiple
> > faults.
> >
> > 2. As to "proper to code installation of wires" you may use any color
> > wire that you wish. Even all black wires. Yes even for ground and
> > neutral! But each end is supposed to be tagged with proper colored tape
> > to identify them.
> > I do it in my own stuff mainly to be able to identify what I did several
> > years latter.
> > If you use 3 conductor Romex for a 220 line (black, white and bare)
> > the white wire should be marked with red tape on each end. The main
> > reason to do so is to tell someone that may be in that circuit doing
> > repair work that that is a 220 line and not a 120 volt line neutral.
> >
> > 3. A three wire 220 line as above is perfectly fine with the NEC as
> > long as it is used as "hot, hot' ground and no neutral is involved.
> >
> > A 3 wire 220 line is fine for most of the amplifiers provided there is
> > no 120 volt / neutral requirement.
> >
> > 4. I saw someone post earlier that "ground wires and neutral wires were
> > intermingled on the lugs in the breaker panel". Even though the two buss
> > bars are tied together in the panel the proper way (to NEC code) is to
> > connect all the neutral wires to the neutral buss bar and all the ground
> > wires to the ground buss bar and not intermingle them.
> > There is good reason for it. Though they may be electrically the same,
> > it is much easier to identify which is which when looking in the crowded
> > panel to try and identify a wire. Also if you have an external main
> > breaker or this panel happens to be a sub panel the ground and neutral
> > would NOT be the same at that point.
> >
> > 5. Yes inspectors do (should) look for properly identified (proper
> > color) wires. You may know what they are on your own work but the next
> > guy that comes along may not know where they are supposed to go unless
> > they are the standard color codes.
> >
> > 73
> > Gary K4FMX
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 16:22:49 +1300
> > From: ZL2AAA <zl2aaa@paradise.net.nz>
> > To: amps@contesting.com
> > Subject: [Amps] TL922
> > Message-ID: <001e01c3bd3a$c21c6720$8523f6d2@white>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="Windows-1252"
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 5
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what is involved to get this amp on 10m or point me =
> > to a web site which explains or shows how to do this Tnx MorrieFrom
> nospam4me@juno.com Mon Dec 8 00:38:29 2003
> > Return-Path: <nospam4me@juno.com>
> > X-Original-To: amps@contesting.com
> > Delivered-To: amps@contesting.com
> > Received: from m09.lax.untd.com (m09.lax.untd.com [64.136.30.72])
> > by dayton.akorn.net (Postfix) with SMTP id 7F29F31AA97
> > for <amps@contesting.com>; Mon, 8 Dec 2003 00:38:28 -0500 (EST)
> > Received: from cookie.untd.com by cookie.untd.com for
> > <"iZc1syh9h4DufJXfj63YZJRa+s48yUEixcRgR32VPrfmi/x5At275Q==">; Sun, 07
Dec
> 2003
> > 21:37:34 PST
> > Received: (from nospam4me@juno.com)
> > by m09.lax.untd.com (jqueuemail) id JGUUHPKA; Sun, 07 Dec 2003 21:37:34
> PST
> > To: amps@contesting.com
> > Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:34:45 -0800
> > Message-ID: <20031207.213447.-434059.2.nospam4me@juno.com>
> > X-Mailer: Juno 4.0.11
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Type: text/plain
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > X-Juno-Att: 0
> > X-Juno-RefParts: 0
> > From: skipp isaham <nospam4me@juno.com>
> > X-Mailman-Approved-At: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 02:14:54 -0500
> > Subject: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
> > X-BeenThere: amps@contesting.com
> > X-Mailman-Version: 2.1
> > Precedence: list
> > List-Id: Amps Reflector <amps.contesting.com>
> > List-Unsubscribe: <http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps>,
> > <mailto:amps-request@contesting.com?subject=unsubscribe>
> > List-Archive: <http://dayton.akorn.net/pipermail/amps>
> > List-Post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
> > List-Help: <mailto:amps-request@contesting.com?subject=help>
> > List-Subscribe: <http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps>,
> > <mailto:amps-request@contesting.com?subject=subscribe>
> >
> > Anyone know of an On-line description for the
> > arco type of trimmer caps? In specific, the
> > famous arco 429 and similar series caps
> > that have been made for decades?
> >
> > These are most often the small square
> > units.
> >
> > Who, what, where is arco now? Would
> > any on-line parts description be available?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > skipp
> > nospam4me@juno.com
> >
> >
> > Also, thank you to everyone for your replies
> > to my series connection of four 572b tubes.
> >
> > I'm going to help the amp owner with a
> > circuit and let you folks know what happens.
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:42:33 +0000
> > From: Mark Hill <g4fph@mjha.co.uk>
> > To: Amps Reflector <amps@contesting.com>
> > Subject: [Amps] Sockets for GU-84B
> > Message-ID: <6.0.1.1.2.20031208094021.02474c88@mail.plus.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 6
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > Thanks to all that replied to my request for information regarding the
> above.
> >
> > RF Parts seems to win on price, with Tom as an alternative source. I
had
> > no joy with any of the Russian sources mentioned.
> >
> > Regards.
> >
> > Mark.
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 00:04:40 -0800
> > From: "David Harmon" <K6XYZ@comcast.net>
> > To: "'skipp isaham'" <nospam4me@juno.com>, <amps@contesting.com>
> > Subject: RE: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
> > Message-ID: <000c01c3bd61$f21e5f60$9c80e542@skunkputer>
> > In-Reply-To: <20031207.213447.-434059.2.nospam4me@juno.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="us-ascii"
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 7
> >
> > First hit on my browser....
> >
> > http://www.arco-electronics.com/arco2/mica/range.html
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Dave Harmon
> > NSRCA 586
> > K6XYZ@comcast.net
> > Torrance, Ca.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: amps-bounces@contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces@contesting.com]
> > On Behalf Of skipp isaham
> > Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 9:35 PM
> > To: amps@contesting.com
> > Subject: [Amps] arco variable capacitor data
> >
> > Anyone know of an On-line description for the
> > arco type of trimmer caps? In specific, the
> > famous arco 429 and similar series caps
> > that have been made for decades?
> >
> > These are most often the small square
> > units.
> >
> > Who, what, where is arco now? Would
> > any on-line parts description be available?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > skipp
> > nospam4me@juno.com
> >
> >
> > Also, thank you to everyone for your replies
> > to my series connection of four 572b tubes.
> >
> > I'm going to help the amp owner with a
> > circuit and let you folks know what happens.
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
> > _______________________________________________
> > Amps mailing list
> > Amps@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 07:49:31 -0600
> > From: Kenneth Cechura <kcechura@umr.edu>
> > To: amps@contesting.com
> > Subject: [Amps] SB-200 parts?
> > Message-ID: <20031208134930.GA25554@umr.edu>
> > In-Reply-To: <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0@cfl.rr.com>
> > References: <20031207.053336.-20331.0.wb8jkr@juno.com>
> > <001e01c3bd1d$66712c20$6500a8c0@cfl.rr.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 8
> >
> > I have an SB200 that I am working on repairing.... had some nasty
things
> > done to it....
> >
> > anyway, i plan on addind the harbauch mods eventually, but for now, just
> > want it to work...
> >
> > I think the tubes are weak, but that's not a big deal at the moment
> > (300-400W out max with 100W drive)
> >
> > but my bandswitches are messed up. i have to kindof jiggle the switch
out
> > of the slot to get output... anyone know where i can get a new set of
> > bandswitch wafers, or if this was a common problem, how to fix it?
> >
> > thanks
> > Ken
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 03:41:18 -0800
> > From: R.Measures <r@somis.org>
> > To: <garyschafer@comcast.net>
> > Cc: AMPS <amps@contesting.com>
> > Cc: Dave Haupt <emailw8nf@yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] Re: Neutral and ground is in how you use them (was
> SB-220
> > on 220V)
> > Message-ID: <20031208114224.012D031A55C@dayton.akorn.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> > Precedence: list
> > Message: 9
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >R.Measures wrote:
> > >>
> > >
> > >>
> > >> ** The neutral in the 240V outlet for the amplifier is shared with
> every
> > >> 120V and every 240V circuit in the house because All of the neutrals
> > >> connect to the neutral/ground terminal strip in the breaker-box. If
I
> am
> > >> fortunate, it is that I know Ohm's law good enough to get by.
> > >>
> > >> __ Which is what I do on the 240v outlet for the
tetrodes-with-handles
> > >> mains outlet. // The imbalance current is c. 85mA-avg in the
> > >> neutral/ground because I utilize one side of the mains-neutral
> potential
> > >> to power a half-wave rectified, C-filtered 160VDC supply for
operating
> > >> the high-speed T/R relays. Although there are some who would be
> alarmed
> > >> about the potential-drop in 99' of #6 wire at 85mA, I am not one of
> them.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >Rich, I am sure that you know and understand this stuff but some others
> > >may not.
> > >
> > >1. The biggest reason for having separate ground and neutral wires is
to
> > >insure safety in case the neutral should open (in the case of a common
> > >ground/neutral system like you use.
> > >Even your 85 ma that you are running on your common ground/neutral line
> > >can be a hazard. If the ground/neutral line opens anywhere you will
have
> > >120 volts at chassis through the transformer primary with enough
current
> > >to cause electrocution if you are between chassis and some other
ground.
> > >
> > ** Providing this person was standing in water.
> >
> > >In your system it may not be too likely to happen. However in many
> > >wiring installations it can easily happen.
> > >
> > >One house that I owned years ago (was a brand new house too) had
> > >problems with some of the wiring. Upon further looking I found that
just
> > >about every outlet in the house had the wires wrapped around the screw
> > >terminals loosely as you normally would, but the screws were never
> > >turned down! Most of the outlets worked properly as far as I knew. I
> > >would have never known if I had not opened them up and looked at them.
> > >That is unless I had a fire first!
> > >Suppose in that house I had a 220 outlet with only 3 wires used as you
> > >do above. I could have very easily had a poor (guaranteed to be poor!)
> > >neutral/ground lead.
> > >
> > >If your 220 line had it's ground/neutral connection wired like that and
> > >you were using it as a neutral/ground you could very easily have a "hot
> > >chassis". I have also seen "electrician" installations where the lugs
in
> > > the breaker panel where not tightened. Wires slipped into hole but
> > >never tightened down. they make a connection but not a reliable one.
> > >
> > >It is easy to have a poor outlet connection too. Fingers in the plug
not
> > >making proper contact. Especially on older / well used outlets.
> > >
> > >If any of these things happen on your neutral/ground line then you are
> > >sure to have a "hot" chassis because you are asking that line to carry
> > >current that is tied to the chassis.
> > >
> > >But if you have a separate neutral and ground line then even if you
> > >would have a poor connection on ANY of the lines (even the ground line)
> > >you would not have a "hot" chassis. Unless of course there were
multiple
> > >faults.
> >
> > ** If the screws are not tightened on the ground and neutral wires, you
> > would.
> > >
> > >2. As to "proper to code installation of wires" you may use any color
> > >wire that you wish. Even all black wires. Yes even for ground and
> > >neutral! But each end is supposed to be tagged with proper colored tape
> > >to identify them.
> >
> > ** I identify them by size. #6 is ground/neutral and the #4s are
mains.
> >
> >
> > >I do it in my own stuff mainly to be able to identify what I did
several
> > >years latter.
> > >If you use 3 conductor Romex for a 220 line (black, white and bare)
> > >the white wire should be marked with red tape on each end. The main
> > >reason to do so is to tell someone that may be in that circuit doing
> > >repair work that that is a 220 line and not a 120 volt line neutral.
> > >
> > >3. A three wire 220 line as above is perfectly fine with the NEC as
> > >long as it is used as "hot, hot' ground and no neutral is involved.
> >
> > ** How can neutral be not involved if the not-hot third wire connects
to
> > the ground/neutral terminal strip?
> > >
> > >A 3 wire 220 line is fine for most of the amplifiers provided there is
> > >no 120 volt / neutral requirement.
> >
> > ** I have been using one half of the amplifier's 240vct, 20A circuit to
> > power my 120v radio and soldering iron for the past 28-years.
> > >
> > >4. I saw someone post earlier that "ground wires and neutral wires
were
> > >intermingled on the lugs in the breaker panel". Even though the two
buss
> > >bars are tied together in the panel the proper way (to NEC code) is to
> > >connect all the neutral wires to the neutral buss bar and all the
ground
> > >wires to the ground buss bar and not intermingle them.
> >
> > ** In my General Electric Co. box there is one common strip for all of
> > the neutral and ground wires
> >
> > >There is good reason for it.
> >
> > ** Apparently, GE did not think so.
> >
> > >Though they may be electrically the same,
> > >it is much easier to identify which is which when looking in the
crowded
> > >panel to try and identify a wire. Also if you have an external main
> > >breaker or this panel happens to be a sub panel the ground and neutral
> > >would NOT be the same at that point.
> > >
> > >5. Yes inspectors do (should) look for properly identified (proper
> > >color) wires. You may know what they are on your own work but the next
> > >guy that comes along may not know where they are supposed to go unless
> > >they are the standard color codes.
> > >
> > ** I trust my DMM more than I trust a color.
> >
> > cheers, Gary
> > ------------------------------
> >
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> >
> >
> > End of Amps Digest, Vol 12, Issue 17
> > ************************************
>
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