Rich,
What you have there is good for this. Now, you can get that pink colored
insulation board. I can never remember the name of it, but I know Hal Mandel
uses it. It's good stuff that can really withstand HV. Matter of fact, they
make molded standoffs with the stuff. It's used on transformers and in power
centers all the time. If any on here knows the name, please let us know again,
hi hi. Plain epoxy board (without the copper) is good also if you don't want to
etch the traces.
On thing about drilling that board where it wont chip. Use drills pointed with
a sharper angle on the end, and not the shallower ones designed for steel. The
ones they have now with the starter point is excellent. I think Black & Decker
calles their drill line like this "Bullet"? Another thing that makes it easy to
produce a good hole is using a center drill like used in a lathe. They have a
really steep angle of 60 degrees. You don't need a center punch when using
them. If you had one the same OD as the screw terminal, you could drill the
whole thing with it. They do go from about 3/16" up to about 3/4" OD+. Any
machine shop supply will have them or maybe Lowes.
Best,
Will
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 4/3/06 at 12:15 PM HOWARDLYON@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 04/02/06 19:29:36 Eastern Standard Time, rich@n7tr.com
>
>writes:
>
>
>So here is the question....This looks like Phenolic type basalite board
>(Brown). Anyone used something newer or recommend what I can use to
>replace the stock board with? I have a drill press, so no issues
>re-drilling a new board. Or if there are boards already built for 8
>Screw-in Caps....better yet.
>
>
>
>Thanks...
>
>Rich
>
>
>
>Rich N7TR
>
>ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV
>
>www.n7tr.com
>
>
>
>Hi Rich
>
>Nice call..... ;-))
>
>I just did a board for my NCL2000. I used some 3/16 XX black bakelite
>that
>I used to provide to Antique Radio Supply in Tempe AZ.
>
>I used the prong-type 105*C radial cans; in series/parallel. I drilled
>and
>chamfered the holes, then installed 1/4" grommets, and peened them in
>place
>with a nail set. [The only way I could configure them to fit in the
>doubler
>housing in the rig.]
>
>
>The caps click in. The shunts wedge nicely. Solder gives you a very
>nice
>seal and fill.
>
>Got some extra if ya need it. Lemme know if ya need a pix.
>
>Unca Billy
>N3TR
>_n3tr@arrl.net_ (mailto:n3tr@arrl.net)
>
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