Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] KENPRO KR-2000
From: Ro Grrr <rogrrr@hotmail.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Stan, K5GO
I find it interesting that you say that my PP and R55 are
overkill and, a 40 meter beam. Yes, I’d like to have a big beam but I have more
interest in RC on 160 than playing anything on 40.
I “just happened to have” some R55 and decided to put it up
so I NEVER have to worry about anything coming down again. That tower, and some
steel poles for guy anchors.
Last time, I had 90 feet of R45 and it did come down but I
think it had some ‘encouragement’ from a road crew that didn’t want to work
around the one particular guy anchor as they had to widen the roadway in front
of my qth. Shame I didn’t catch the baxxxrd loosening the guy wire clamp or
I’da shot his worfless arse as he climbed my guy anchor and then justified it
to the prosecutor as ‘he’ was threatening my life, since _I’m_ the one who
climbs that tower and with a loose guy clamp, it might come down with me up
there.
I recall how CDE/CDR used to sense rotor direction but I
also remember how the pot got dirty/noisy and the meter jumped all over the
place. I guess a sealed pot would preclude that so maybe I’ll go that route
this time. However, I did like that old style control box (still have a couple
of
them). Never did like those fancy-dan digikal lodgic displays.
You did give me a good idea for the PP, in that I can build
a mount and hang it outside the tower. I do have welding and machining
capabilities
so I can build the abortion to drive the mast and the R55 is strong enough that
I can build something that will handle it all with ease. I’m wondering about
coupling to the mast, tho with MENDELSONS not being all that far from me, I
might be able to pick up a transmission/angle drive to couple to it, or rig up
some type of bicycle chain drive.
Larry W6NWS
It’s always nice to hear feedback from a true user. When my
tower fell, some 20 years ago, the connector on the rotor broke and since I
didn’t know that Yaesu bought out KENPRO, I didn’t know where to pick up a
replacement. And since I wasn’t all that active then, I simply decided not to
put the tower back up. After my move and decision to go active again, and
working
in the electronics field, I undertook a search for the source of the connector.
I determined that it was made by NANABOSHI. I figured out that it’s an NCS258P,
which was available from:
Kinetic Technologies of Ohio
PO Box 447
190 North Mill Street
Milford Center, OH 43045-0447
937-349-7361
So I bought 2 plugs and 2 receptacles so I could replace
what was on the rotor and have a splicer in the shack. This way, I could bring
the rotor down and work on it in the shop without any major rewiring/splicing.
The connectors cost me about $10 each, rather the $35 from Yaesu.
The tribander I’ll put up will be a TH7, with maybe a 2
meter beam and who knows what else. I have 24 feet of ¼” wall, 2” 6061 mast and
will have about 15 feet sticking out the top of the tower unless I can find
some 3” aluminum (like my gin pole).
Mike NF4L
I might take your advice and bring in a crane even tho I
have always done all my own tower work. However, my house is in the woods and
there’s not that much room behind the house for the crane. The spot for the
tower might not give me enough room for the crane to get in and set up. I’m not
sure of the footprint required for the crane since I haven’t talked with any
riggers
to find out what size cranes they have. I’ll just have to bring in their
estimators and have them look over my situation and determine what they can do.
Also, to assemble 150 feet of R55 requires some room and I might not have that,
either. I’d also like to have the top section with the rotor and mast already
assembled
on the tower. There’s a possibility that I will have to assemble everything in
front of the house and have the crane lift it all up and over the house, rotate
it upright and place it on the base rods. (I will have solid rods set in the
concrete base rather than have a section of tower in the concrete). I’ve
thought about using a pier pin but am
leaning away from (no pun intended) that idea even tho I do have a pier pin
base plate.
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