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Re: [TowerTalk] more pulling cables

To: Steve K7AWB <k7awbgoog@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] more pulling cables
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 09:11:58 -0800
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Sand around any conduit/pipe in rocky soil is a good practice. At my WA QTH any holes would let water in even if the conduit was barely covered with dirt. I tried simultaneous pull & glue once and wouldn't do that again. It's just to messy and dirty and risks gluing the cable to the conduit. I put in 2" conduit for power and 3" or 4" for coax and control lines. Code says they need to be at different depths if in the same trench, but....

You might consider fiberglass/plastic enclosures rather than steel - no rust and much easier to punch or drill for 4" conduit. check McMaster and ebay. They can't be too big considering junctions, service loops, surge arrestors for rotators & steppIRs, grounding plates, etc.

Something not mentioned so far in these posts is the ability to use continuous run conduit. Your local underground horizontal drilling contractor would probably cut off a chunk from his giant spool and might have some short ends for free. I was left several pieces 30 to 60' long after a new primary line was run to the new transformer and new service runs to generator, house, and shop. Regular couplings work sch 40 or 80. Unfortunately my scraps are sch 80 which takes 3 men and a gorilla to straighten on any day less than 80 deg. Drilling and continuous conduit has the advantage of a smooth interior and going around and under stuff like driveways, but is not cheap.

And one more input - sweeps are available in various bend radii for 2" and larger conduit. I've seen two radius sizes at HD, and electrical suppliers carry larger radii. IIRC Puget Sound Energy wants 48" radius on the service entrance ends and limits how many of these (3?) are permitted in a run. Sometimes sch 80 is required for exiting from underground for extra strength to the box/meter. Again, I've seen random sch 80 sweeps at HD which they deny they stock.

Grant KZ1W


On 2/25/2013 8:35 PM, Steve K7AWB wrote:
This April, I will install my conduit and pull the cables to the existing towers. From the shack wall, its about 100 feet to Tower #1 and an additional 130 feet to Tower #2.
I live on 20 acres.

The cables to Tower #1 will terminate in a steel enclosure at the bottom of that tower. Also, the cables to the far Tower #2 will terminate in a steel enclosure at the base of Tower #1 and then continue to Tower #2 in their conduit.
I probably will use three of the 4" PVC conduits for all the cables
to get to Tower #1. One will contain the cables for Tower #1 use; another for Tower #2 use; and the third for future projects in the back field. Then one additional conduit goes from Tower #1 to Tower #2. Ands one additional goes in another
direction also from Tower #1 for future area in the back field.

I figure to glue and bury the conduit in the ground first and put sand,
dirt, & rock on top of it so pulling cables will not pull the conduit out of the
ground rather that gluing each section, one at a time, around the cables.

Is burying the conduit before pulling a good idea like I suggest? After all, once it is buried, it is impossible to remove it economically. I will use
sand to create a smooth bottom for the conduits to rest on and then cover
them with dirt. Its all fractured basalt out there, but the back hoe that
was used managed to make the trenches. The trenches are about 24" deep or
so.

I know this has been discussed before, but I still have not decided on
drilling or not a few water holes in the bottom every so often, or at least
at the lowest spots, to drain water from condensation.  Holes bring bugs
which  may or may not matter.  I don't want a small hole to become an
enlarged entrance hole for a Vole which I have out there.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Steve Sala
K7AWB
DN17es
Nine Mile Falls, WA

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