On 11/6/2014 10:46 AM, Kelly Taylor wrote:
I've repaired a number of the Ham series rotators. Nearly all had bad
terminal strips. Some had been stored outside when not in use and some
had the weight of the rotator cable suspended from the terminal strip.
I put a half knot in the cable and tape it to the tower so the poor
little terminal strip only has to pass electrons. I have used the
standard connector kit sold by hy-gain for the Tail Twister.
HOWEVER when replacing that terminal strip you have to go all the way
back to the ends of the runs where they are connected. The manuals I
have show where each wire comes out to the terminal strip. That's
helpful but, they do not always use the same color wire from terminal
strip connection. At least I've never found one with the wrong
connection, just different color wires.
Make a copy of the schematic that shows the connections and terminal
strip. On the copy, write the colors down! extend the lines on the
schematic a bit and enter the new connector pin numbers. (they are
embossed in the plastic.) It makes thins simpler for those who come
later to use the same pin numbers, although I do like the color code.
It's what I use when connecting the rotator cable to the terminal strip
while remembering to keep the two larger wires separate.
With the kit, just make sure the ends of the wires are parallel. solder
the pins on the cable.(get them on the proper ends) Once the male and
female connectors are soldered in place, use your schematic and
carefully insert the pins in the proper hole. They are extremely
difficult to remove so get it right the first time. ( NOTE the brass
sleeve - ink cartridge on most pens is just the right size to use for a
pin removal tool) Hy-gain did not conveniently follow the color code.
but your schematic does have all the colors and pin numbers listed so
you know what comes out the other end.
The connectors (in all the kits I've used) were gold plated (don't
corrode), BUT the spring clips that hold them in place will rust. they
are thin so it wouldn't take long. I thoroughly flood the connector
inside with silicone grease. (after the pins are inserted and checked)
DC-4 and 5 compounds work just fine. Get the silicone grease at the
auto store. Computer and electronics stores usually charge an arm and a
leg for a tiny packet. I used to purchase a 10 oz tube for a buck.
I do not like the usual trailer hitch connector replacement, but the mid
size Winchester connectors used by the military work great. Even better
than the Hy-gain connectors. They come in a variety of sizes and are
CHEAP as long as you purchase surplus or at a swap.
73
Roger (K8RI)
I will admit I was suckered into the idea of using a connector on my Ham-x
style rotator.
I've changed the rotator, let's see, want to make sure I don't lose count
here, ummmmmm, ZERO times in almost 10 years.
Next time, no connectors. Nothing is as impervious as an unbroken run of
cable. I'm also not convinced that undoing eight lugs on a terminal strip is
any harder than undoing the weatherproofing on the connector!
73, kelly
ve4xt
On 11/6/14 11:33 AM, "Don" <w7wll@arrl.net> wrote:
Agree on the use of quality trailer connectors.
Here on the beach one set for a T2X served faithfully for 11 years in a
harsh salt air and wet environment. The salt air eventually got to it but it
took 11 years. Did not seal where the wires enter the rear of the block and
this is where the corrosion came from. My mistake. Will replace it with
another trailer connector set - but this time will further cover the set
with sleeving and seal the sleeving on the cable. My set is about 3 feet
from the rotator up on the tower. Have a similar connector on the van and
work trailer and they have been there since 2006, but I keep the contacts
coated with CorrosionBlock and on these I had sealed where the wires enter
the rubber block back with the 3M liquid seal. Keep it simple and properly
sealed.
Don W7WLL
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Greenlee
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 4:57 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 143, Issue 10
This sort of need for a M/F connector pair with good weatherproof
characteristics has been threshed out here a lot not that long ago. Many
folks, myself included, use the automotive trailer connectors (4 pin). They
are not expensive and work well. I use them for my 8 conductor rotator
control cables. By putting a male and a female on each end to be joined you
have a goof proof polarized weatherproof connection. Some of us truly anal
types add tape, coax seal and or whatever to further weatherproof the
connections.
These connectors are available at trailer supply places, autoparts stores,
Walmart (RV section) and so forth.
73,
Patrick NJ5G
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Stowell
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 6:02 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 143, Issue 10
Bill.
I had one of the first four element steppir and they originally
used a section of PVC pipe with two and caps and a slot in the bottom
part of the two. The original stepper motors had pigtails and you terminated
all of these wires into two nylon terminal strips and connected the matching
wires from the control cable these wires and terminal strip were placed
inside
the PVC pipe. The pipe was attached to the boom via a stainless strap clamp.
Didn't move the ends and made sure the slot was facing down. The antenna
was up almost 7 years(until lightning got it) they sent a little supply of
dielectric grease and the connections were good when the antenna came down.
I used a variation of this method at the base of a 50 foot tower for the
rotor line.
I had the splice new cable and I simply took a short length of PVC and one
cap mounted it with the cap up and strapped it to the leg of the tower and
put the splice up in the tube and that was out there for several years
with no problems. Depending on the size of the connectors will determine
the diameter of the PVC pipe.
73
Larry K1ZW
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2014 12:37:41 -0800
From: Bill Straw via TowerTalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rotor cable / Steppir cable connectors
Message-ID:
<1415219861.25659.YahooMailNeo@web141501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I'm spending way too much time trying to find what I need, time to ask...
I need to be able to break apart my rotor cable, so I need a
weatherproof M/F set for 8 conductor 18 AWG.
Also I need to break apart the Steppir control cable, 12 conductor + shield
22 AWG.
These disconnects are at the top of the tower so a weatherproof M/F set
is very important.
73, Bill KO7SS
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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