Don`t think so...I do know metals having made my living for over 40yrs doing
so...Soaking for several minutes would render your suggested results,however
I dipped and rinsed in a matter of less than 30seconds..Jim..
----- Original Message -----
From: <sanorm@columbus.rr.com>
To: "k7rdx" <k7rdx@charter.net>
Cc: "'Amplifier- List'" <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Surface Cleaning Tarnished Aluminum "YC156"
> Looks good but you just lost all the silver plating on the YC156 anode
> fins.
>
> Norm N8NH
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: k7rdx <k7rdx@charter.net>
> Date: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Surface Cleaning Tarnished Aluminum
> To: Larry <larry@w7iuv.com>
> Cc: 'Amplifier- List' <amps@contesting.com>
>
> > A much diluted batch of muriatic acid eches alum really
> > well,followed by
> > rinse in water. Also works really well for cleaning silver plated
> > parts,ceramic tubes,etc...Dip in/out fast depending on dilution
> > ratio,fullstrenght might eat the part..Vinegar cleans alum super
> > well as does glass
> > cleaner..I have cleaned a few yc-156`s in muriatic acid full
> > strength and
> > they look like new...Takes a few seconds followed by flushing with
> > cleanwater and blow dry..Got wind?73,Jim..
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry" <larry@w7iuv.com>
> > Cc: "'Amplifier- List'" <amps@contesting.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 10:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] Surface Cleaning Tarnished Aluminum
> >
> >
> > > Robert Bonner wrote:
> > > > I thought we covered this last week. You don't want to use
> > LYE on
> > aluminum
> > > > unless you want it to GO AWAY. It dissolves it, acid works more
> > controlled.
> > > > Lye would cause more pits.
> > > >
> > > I gotta jump in here.
> > >
> > > Lye, if used with a bit of intelligence, does not "dissolve"
> > aluminum.> At least not any more then you would want to in the
> > first place. I use
> > > the stuff all the time on aluminum and it works great for
> > putting a nice
> > > matte finish on parts and is a reasonable surface prep prior to
> > painting> if you don't have the resources to do a professional prep.
> > >
> > > As far as the air variable cap surfaces, all the Johnson and
> > Caldwell> caps I have seen appear to have had the plates tumbled.
> > Depending on the
> > > tumbling media used, the surface can be nicely de-burred down to
> the
> > > microscopic level and leave anything from a matte to a polished
> > finish.> Although I have the resources to tumble small parts, I
> > don't have to
> > > patience to do it. A proper job may take several days depending
> > on the
> > > media used and the type of "polish" desired.
> > >
> > > If I were to re-build a air variable with the resources I have
> > here, I
> > > would dis-assemble it and using 400 grit wet-or-dry paper
> > carefully take
> > > off the high spots. Then I would do a light etch with lye (sodium
> > > hydroxide). The lye will etch away all the microscopic ridges
> > left by
> > > the sandpaper and leave you with a nice matte finish that will
> > look good
> > > under the microscope. Any "potholes" that might be left on the
> > plates> won't matter as long as there are no high spots or sharp
> > shapes or edges.
> > >
> > > As has been said here recently, never dump parts in lye that
> > have blind
> > > holes tapped into them. I have not had any problem with drilled
> > and/or> tapped holes in sheets or plates, but have had a bit of
> > trouble with
> > > blind holes. Of course, I use a lye concentration suitable for
> > the job
> > > at hand and watch it all the time it's in the bucket.
> > >
> > > The acid wash has always been a problem for me as the acid I
> > would like
> > > to use is much more difficult to obtain then sodium hydroxide. Has
> > > anyone used white vinegar for this?
> > >
> > > 73, Larry
> > >
> > > --
> > > Larry - W7IUV
> > > DN07dg
> > > http://w7iuv.com
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> >
>
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