Thanks Anthony, that's more info than I got. Unfortunately those two links did
not work. I wonder what the snap-on he referred to, because it's pretty tight
inside the detector.
Dale, k9vuj
On 27, Oct 2013, at 6:52, Anthony (N2KI) <n2ki.ham@gmail.com> wrote:
> I found the reply I received from Kidde. Thank goodness for archiving.
> Maybe someone can have better response than I did.
>
>
>
> *In response to your email, here are a few things we can try to fix this
> problem.
>
>
> Test 1
>
> Have a QSO on the offending frequency and watch the unit for signs of
> interference.
>
> This would be an indication of CO as shown on the LED display.
>
> The indicated CO would likely increase over the period of your QSO till an
> alarm condition occurs.
>
> It is possible that the CO indication may go very high even 999 which would
> result in an almost instantaneous CO alarm.
>
> I’m trying to get a feel as to how long it takes the alarm to go into alarm
> after the QSO starts.
>
>
>
> Test 2
>
> Remove the unit from AC power this will allow the unit to operate on its
> internal 9V backup battery.
>
> Perform Test 1 again and note the results.
>
> It is possible that you will have greatly reduced level of interference .
>
>
>
> Note;
>
> Your unit has a ‘peak level’ memory make sure that you ‘clear’ the peak
> level memory before your QSO.
>
> The peak level memory will store low level ‘<= 30ppm’ readings.
>
> Readings of 30ppm or less are only shown on the display when the peak
> button is pressed and held.
>
>
>
> Test3
>
> If test 2 results in greatly reduced interference try plugging the unit
> into a different outlet, preferably on a different breaker, and perform
> Test 1 again.
>
> Note the results.
>
>
>
> The purpose of all of these tests is to try and determine if the
> interference is being conducted through the AC mains house wiring.
>
> If it is we can try these type of ‘snap on ferrites’
> http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/638/952.pdf
>
> You would install one or two of these on the wire from the plug-in
> transformer directly where it enters the alarm unit.
>
> Also this should be a familiar site as well as a good reference.
> http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/rfigen.html
>
>
>
> There are also other tests and solutions we can try if we do not solve this
> issue.
>
> Feel free to email or call.
>
> Please contact me at 1-919-563-5911 ext 8415 if there is anything else I
> can do for you. Thank you for using Kidde and allowing us to protect your
> home.
>
> Click here for 24 hour online support
>
> Very Truly Yours,
>
> Vaughn Greene
> Consumer Product Support
> Kidde Safety-UTC Fire & Safety
> 1016 Corporate Park Drive
> Mebane, NC 27302
> 1-800-880-6788 Ext 8415
> Fax: 800-547-2111
>
> Need help at odd hours? Log onto
> http://portalgb.knowledgebase.net/?cid=12758&c=15121&cpc=i830o4bbvC82cRVePyldWo3I
>
> The information contained in this message or any of its attachments may be
> privileged and confidential and intended for the exclusive use of the
> addressee. Any views or opinions expressed in this e-mail are those of the
> individual and not necessarily of Kidde Safety/UTC Fire & Safety. If you
> are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, reproduction, distribution
> or other dissemination or use of this communications is strictly prohibited.
> *
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Anthony (N2KI)
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 10:09 PM, Roger (K8RI) <k8ri@rogerhalstead.com>wrote:
>
>> On 10/26/2013 6:05 PM, Christopher Brown wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Monox (CO) detectors are important if you have any potential CO sources.
>>>
>>> Any combustion fired devices, vehicles, etc. are a potential source.
>>>
>>>
>> We have them in every room and the basement. "First Alert CO400"
>> Expected life, 5 years, uses an electrochemical cell/detector
>> price $17 give or take.
>> Battery powered 2 AA, No AC connection.
>> Check weekly, battery life, 1 year plus.
>> No RFI yet and not bothered by QRO on 160, or 75. Distance to the 160 and
>> 75 antennas 40 feet, give or take a tad. 40 is wayyy out. 150 feet or
>> more.
>>
>>>
>>>
>> 73
>>
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>
>>
>>
>> If you get really, really lucky you might notice a weak source, if you
>>> are awake and the levels are rising slowly by the fact you are getting
>>> sleepy and getting a headach...If you are already asleep, or the levels
>>> rise rapidly...GoodBye.
>>>
>>>
>>> Other fun bits...
>>>
>>> As I understand it, the sensors to not have a unlimited lifespan, good
>>> idea to replace every X years (check with maker docs on lifespan).
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Location is important, CO pools in low places, these things need to be
>>> located _low_. Normal outlet height is a good place, why most CO
>>> detectors are made to plug straight in to an outlet.
>>>
>>>
>>> Now...Outlets are not always near the floor, often in furnace
>>> rooms/utility rooms garages, etc they are much higher.
>>>
>>>
>>> Take a close look at the back of the CO detector... While some of the
>>> smaller ones are one piece, many of the ones about the size of a
>>> paperback or larger have a removable wall-wart.
>>>
>>>
>>> I just replaced a pair of Kiddie Nighthawks (10 years old) with newer
>>> Kiddie units. In both the Nighthawks and the new units, power is from a
>>> wall-ward that is snapped into a section of the case.
>>>
>>> If you have low outlets you can just plug in...
>>>
>>>
>>> If you have higher outlets you are supposed to unsocket the wart, and
>>> remote mount the CO detector (mounting provisions on back).
>>>
>>> This is a std wart with a 6ft ish cable, and is perfect for wrapping
>>> around a toroid.
>>>
>>>
>>> I always place CO detectors in potential sources and connected living
>>> areas.
>>>
>>> My garage has one, both because it is a garage and because NatGas heater
>>> and water heater is there. Outlets are at the 5ft level... Detector is
>>> at 18" level on the wall with the wart up at the outlet. There was
>>> enough to place a 2.4" type 31 toroid at the wart (with its own support
>>> so the weight is not pulling on the wart).
>>>
>>> There is another in the living area, downstairs hallway where the living
>>> room, kitched, laundry and garage entrance meet. Outlets are low there,
>>> but did the same thing with the remotable wart to put a toroid on it.
>>> CO detector is about 18" to the right of the outlet.
>>>
>>> Key point is to make sure the AC connection is well protected from
>>> getting tugged/etc.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Far as RF trigger... Both the old NighthHawks and the new ones are
>>> triggered by conducted RF. Attic antenna w/ 100watts... 160 - 10 will
>>> trigger. Remote antenna, still triggers 160 - 40 if running more than
>>> 400watts.
>>>
>>> The toroids take care of that.
>>>
>>>
>>> Looking at the datasheet for KN-COP-DP-LS, it is the smaller direct to
>>> outlet type without the removable wart, for use only where you have low
>>> outlets.
>>>
>>>
>>> You might look at
>>>
>>> KN-COEG-3
>>> KN-COPP-3
>>>
>>> These are both larger units with a remotable wart.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/23/13 1:10 PM, dalej wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just a heads up.
>>>>
>>>> I purchased a Kidde NightHawk CO2 detector model KN-COP-DP-LS, it is
>>>> designed to plug into a wall outlet plus it has a 9 v. battery backup
>>>> and LED readout. While transmitting on 80 meters after a while it
>>>> starts audible warning, very loud. I called the company tech support
>>>> line and they did not have any solution. As an experiment I plugged
>>>> the detector into a two wire extension cord and wrapped the extension
>>>> around a #31 mix snap-on, then tested and it did not go off. The
>>>> tech support said not to use an extension cable with the detector.
>>>>
>>>> So if you are looking for a CO2 detector be aware of this problem
>>>> with 80 meter RFI tripping the detector. I went to strictly battery
>>>> powered CO2 detector and that works fine.
>>>>
>>>> Dale, k9vuj ______________________________**_________________ RFI
>>>> mailing list RFI@contesting.com
>>>> http://lists.contesting.com/**mailman/listinfo/rfi<http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi>
>>>>
>>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> RFI mailing list
>>> RFI@contesting.com
>>> http://lists.contesting.com/**mailman/listinfo/rfi<http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
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>>
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