I guess I might have been a bit misleading. I do use two other tools
besides just a razor blade.
Tool number 1. A small section of hobby type brass tubing that just fits
the coax. I use this as a guide for my razor blade.
Tool number 2. A cheap plastic dial caliper the type with the depth
measurement wire. I use this to set the position of the brass tubing.
Using this method If the soldering iron is hot I can install a solder
on PL-259 on RG-213 or RG-8 in about 4 min and that's taking my time to
do it right. I guess If i was trying to show off I could probably
install one in about 2 min.
Of course that's probably slow compared to an expert installer with a
nice pair of strippers using crimp on PL259's
Roger (K8RI) wrote:
> To st art I've never had problems with solder type PL-259s failing.
>
>> The problem is not the stripper, but not knowing how to use it. A coax
>> stripper in my opinion is a complete waste of money. I can strip coax
>>
>
> I'm not sure I'd call it a complete waste as they can be handy, BUT...
> I use the "box cutters" that fold like a jacknife and except for small coax
> prefer them over the strippers.
> I try to use a very sharp blade, which usually means new, when ever starting
> a job.
>
>
>> with a sharp razor blade faster and much more accurate then a coax
>>
>
> Depends on what you mean by accurate. There's a fair amount of leeway that's
> minus nothing, plus a "fair amount" which is of course a term we all define
> a bit differently.
>
>
>> stripper ever could and I never nick the conductors.
>>
>
> I'm not quite that good, but I haven't nicked many<:-))
>
> Normally I take the dimensions needed for the cuts, then knowing that, hold
> the connector (N or UHF) up agains the coax (LMR 400 and 600) to eyeball the
> points to cut. First I make the cut *almost* all the way to the center
> conductor leaving a tad extra center conductor sticking out (maybe a mm or
> two). A quick twist and jacket, shiled and dielectric come right off the
> end. The next cut is through the jacket and braid, just scoring the foil.
> Some cables have the foil bonded to the foam dielectric . I try not to cut
> all the way through the foil as this will put a considerable indentation in
> the dielectric and probably force pieces of brad into the cut which is why I
> do not want to cut all the way through. (Stripper or blade that foil may
> take a bit of extra work on some cables). Finally, like you I only score the
> jacket and bend it to make the seperation. The depth of the score may take
> a few tries to get right. With LMR400 a stripper may be faster to make the
> individual cuts, but if done correctly the overall time to prep the end of
> the cable for the connector is little different.
>
> BTW I do wear a tight fitting leather glove at least on the hand holding the
> box cutter.
>
>
>
>> The problem is you are expecting the coax stripper cut all the way
>> through the outer jacket or inner dielectric without ever touching the
>>
>
> I find most try to do the same even with a blade.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>
>> shield or center conductor.. That won't ever happen its not possible
>> without using some sort of computerized laser cutter.
>>
>> All you need the stripper to do is score the outside of the jacket,
>> simple as that. After you make the score then you flex the coax and the
>> jacket will split right at the score mark. It's kind of like cutting
>> glass...... Same thing for the inner conductor you adjust it so the
>> stripper cuts almost to the center conductor then take a pair of pliers
>> or your hand and give the inner dielectric a twist and it will shear at
>> the score line.
>>
>> When you get the hang of it it's very simple. Like I said, I strip coax
>> all the time with nothing more then a razor blade and I never nick the
>> conductors because I never get close enough. I just make a light score
>> in the jacket where I want the cut and flex the coax Perfect cut every
>> time...
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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