DAVE WHITE wrote:
> ATF! Now there's an idea. I'd often wondered what was best for this job. I
> think the main parameter is that it's not synthetic.
>
>
I doubt that it really matters, nor do I think the sulfur in some oils
will make much of a difference unless the DL is operated at elevated
temperatures for some time. Typically the problem with those oils is
water from combustion products forming acid.
BTW if you want mineral oil it is readily available in one quart
containers at your local airport maintenance facility. New and rebuilt
aircraft engines use mineral oil during their break in period. It's
been so long since we had a break in period with automotive engines I
think most people have forgotten.
73
Roger (K8RI)
> I have to use non-synthetic oil for a couple of classic cars that have paper
> gaskets and synth or semi synth would pour straight through them.
>
> So how about finding a classic car parts and service shop? Maybe they could
> help? What do old Harleys use?
>
> Also, how about EP80 gear oil? I think that's "old spec". Modern EP90 is
> different, and I can't use that in the 1958 Land Rover because it apparently
> attacks the bronze bearings. Maybe that's fully mineral oil?
>
> cheers
>
> Dave G0OIL
>
> --- On Fri, 5/12/08, Charles Bibb <zedkay@telepak.net> wrote:
>
> From: Charles Bibb <zedkay@telepak.net>
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Non Detergent motor oil for dummy loads?????
> To: "Lloyd Korb" <k8dio@windstream.net>, amps@contesting.com
> Date: Friday, 5 December, 2008, 7:37 PM
>
>
> At 01:16 PM 12/5/2008, Lloyd Korb wrote:
>
>> I am resurrecting an old Heath Cantenna and having a hard time finding
>> mineral oil in large quantities. I have heard that is okay to use non
>> detergent motor oil. Is there any truth to that?
>>
>
> I bought a commercial 2500W load from a broadcast engineer. It was
> filled with automotive transmission fluid (red). Been working fine
> for over a year now. ;-)
>
> 73,
> Charles - K5ZK
>
>
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