Robert Groh wrote:
> Not sure but someone else may have answered your reply but, if not, here is
> my reply.
>
> First, you shouldn't confuse the green wire with a neutral. It is not a
> neutral, it is a 'grounding' conductor - that is, it is intended to ground
> the metal parts of the electrical appliance (e.g. your HL-1K). The neutral
> wire is usually the white wire and it is usually connected to the unswitched
> side of the load. The hot wires (typically black for 120 VAC or black and
> red for 240 VAC) are the wires normally switched.
>
>
I see some differences and I don't know if you meant 3 wire 120 or 3
wire 240.
> I was able to locate a schematic for the HL-1K amplifier on the net (nice
> amp, by the way!) and I would hook it up this way:
> 120 VAC 3-wire
> Black 120 VAC input switched input (check schematic)
> White Neutral - other 120 VAC input
>
Here with 3 wire 120, neutral is 0 volts to ground.
Actually there is a common point in the main breaker panel where the 000
neutral comes in and ties to a buss. Right beside it the buss is the #6
house electrical ground that goes to the ground rods. All circuit
wiring neutrals and grounds also tie to this point. Circuit neutrals
connect to ground through the same buss. Current flowing to ground trips
the ground fault breakers or GFI outlets.
3 wire 240 is Red, Black, and White. Red and Black are 240 between and
120 to neutral. In this case ground is done locally as the shack ground.
4 wire 240 is the same with ground (either green or bare) back to the panel.
I just double checked the main panels in the house and shop to make sure
this is the way they are wired. The shop also has a GFI outlet at the
head end of each circuit instead of GFI breakers. These panels are both
less than 10 years old and were installed when we built the shop and
rewired the house.
> Green Ground - connect direct to chassis
>
We are not allowed to use the 110VAC B,W, and ground as a 240 with white
being 120 to ground if it's going to pass code. OTOH there are a lot of
non standard wiring jobs around here and with older homes it's not
uncommon at all to find B,W,G as 240.
73
Roger (K8RI)
> 220 VAC - 4 wire
> Black 220 VAC input
> Red Other 220 VAC input point
> White Neutral (no connection - any internal 120 VAC loads (e.g. fan)
> are provided by HL-1K transformer)
> Green Ground - connect directly to chassis
>
> So there you - my best guess
>
> 73
> Bob Groh, WA2CKY
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Kevin LaHaie <klahaie@centricata.com>
> To: Robert Groh <rgroh@swbell.net>
> Cc: MIKE DURKIN <patriot121@msn.com>; amps@contesting.com
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 12:48:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [Amps] HL-2K
>
> I have an HL-1K from THP, and the power cord is only 2 conductors. The
> manual gives wiring schemes for 100v, 110v, 117/120v, 200v,220v, and 234/240v.
>
> Only the 2 leads are illustrated (obviously a hot / neutral for 100-120v, 2
> hots for 240v). It shows no ground OR neutral connections to the wiring
> terminals.
>
> So I am also curious to see what is recommended to wire one of these early
> THP amps for single phase 240v if putting the green (neutral) wire to the
> chassis is a no-no. (obviously I had planned to put a 3 wire cord on this
> amp, perhaps now it will need a 4 wire?)
>
> 73 Kevin K7ZS
>
> Robert Groh wrote:
>
>> No, no, never connect the neutral to any ground (e.g. the case, the
>> grounding conductor in the 4-wire line, etc)!
>>
>> That is a violation of the electrical code and dangerous on top of it. I
>> can't tell you what use the HL-2K uses - hopefully someone can give the
>> answer on what you do with the neutral connection. The neutral (in
>> combination with 1 of the hot wires) is used to give you a 120VAC power
>> connection (for relays, small power supplies, fans, whatever).
>>
>> 73
>> Bob, WA2CKY
>>
>>
>>
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