One alternative to a shear is to use two steel angles clamped with the sheet
metal between the angles, and then saw so you get a straight line. Then draw
file for a good finish. Messy, time consuming, but an alternative to a shear.
Same technique works instead of a brake for bending - you just need to cut the
lengths to the inside dimensions of the box.
If you can get a shear and have room for it, that's far easier. I could do with
a better brake (we call them 'benders') but my shear (a 'guillotine' in the UK)
is fine - it takes 39 inch wide sheet up to 1/16 inch thick steel. Was about
$300 new.
You can use the lathe for some milling operations, but a proper mill is very
useful - it makes a very good precision drill, too.
As Colin says, always clamp things well. Worth always using eye protection,
too. Some years back, drilling thick copper (an awful material to drill and
tap!)I had a 1/8 inch drill bind and snap and a bit took a chip out of my
safety glasses......
73
Peter G3RZP
========================================
Message Received: May 04 2013, 09:00 PM
From: "Colin Lamb" <k7fm@teleport.com>
To: "Roger (K8RI)" <k8ri@rogerhalstead.com>, amps@contesting.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Amps] chassis maker?
"I consider a shear essential unless you are not considering looks. Only
a few have the skill to saw and file with a professional look."
Although I have a shear, that may not be the perfect solution. In order to
cut thicker aluminum or steel, you need a 2,000 pound shear, which involves
space. And, often they are not able to do more than cut a flat edge the full
length of the material. If you are going to fold it, the shear may not be able
to cut all the shapes you need. However, both a table saw and a radial arm
saw, with a non-ferrous blade can make clean cuts (warning - secure things
before you cut). And, if you build edge guides, even a saber saw with a metal
cutting blade can make clean cuts.
73, Colin K7FM
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