Just as I suspected Larry, its very common.
That is a standard Centralab switch so finding a suitable wafer shouldnt be
too hard on fleabay, hamfests, etc.
As long as the replacement has 2 positions all the others can be ignored.
Get some GC or similar HV Corona dope and brush on the suspet metal areas;
theat stuff has a 30KV rating.
Hard wiring for SSB only is a bad idea for 2 reasons.
1. Much higher surge current
2. Easier to destroy tubes and other parts during tuning.
Always power on and tune in CW. Switching to SSB doesnt require retuning.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry" <lknain@nc.rr.com>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton-L question
I looked at the switch this morning in the amp (it's at the top of the
front panel). With a mirror I spotted on the bottom side of the switch
where it arced from some part of the switch contact to the switch shaft.
The arc point is not visible from the top of the switch. The switch still
rotates but I suspect the contact is so lose to the shaft that it just arcs
with power. I won't know more until I take the switch out. I am not sure I
will ever know why all of a sudden it arced over but at least I know what
it is. There are no wires in the area.
I suspect the switch is a lost cause. Finding a new one should be
interesting. A number of responses would suggest just bypassing the switch
and just connect the SSB lead and just tie off the CW tap wire which could
at least be an interim solution if not permanent.
I hope the switch is the only problem.
Thanks to all who took time to respond.
73, Larry W6NWS
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Youvan
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 9:30 AM
To: amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton-L question
On 09/11/2013 02:58 PM, Carl wrote:
Id check the SSB/CW switch carefully for arcing to a metal part. Common
problem with an underrated switch.
"Larry" <lknain@nc.rr.com> wrote:
One day when I switched from CW to SSB mode on my Clipperton-L it blew
the fuse with a good bang. The switch picks between a tap and one side
of the power transformer secondary – tap being for CW.
I would take the switch out and put a "wire nut" on one transformer
connection sealing it off and make the other connection with another
"wire nut" and test. Then I would switch to the other transformer
connection and test, if both work the switch is arcing.
--
Ron KA4INM - Youvan's corollary:
Every action results in unwanted side effects.
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