I went back and read more of that page after I got more fully awake. Forget
what I said about the 3800 volts for now.
Sometimes, high voltage applied to a tube, BUT with more current behind it
than you've applied, causes a one-time arc that clears a tiny bit of debris
that got in during manufacture. I've personally seen that happen with some
572Bs in my SB-200.
In my case, I added a 10-20 ohm glitch resistor and AGC 1 glass fuse in
series with the HV anode supply. The first time (IIRC) that I powered up
the amp, the fuse blew. When I replaced the fuse, the amp could be used.
That fuse blew two other times, but has never blown since (in over two
years.)
You never know unless you try, :-)
73, Mike
www.w0btu.com
On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 2:04 PM, Mike Waters <mikewate@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like you received some other info off the list.
>
> I have a wild hunch. What happens if you don't leave the grid floating?
> Try the hi-pot test with the grid connected to the cathode.
>
> And did you try this again with the filament lit?
>
> In your OP you said you wanted to run it at 3800 volts. It's been awhile
> since I researched that tube, but isn't that kind of high for the GS-35B?
> http://www.gs35b.com/gs35b/
>
> 73, Mike
> www.w0btu.com
>
> On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 1:34 PM, nemo zilch <nemozilch@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> OK gang. I think the collective wisdom of the group is that my tube has
>> more than average gas and that operating it with plate power is not likely
>> to help due to the location of the getter. So, guess I just lost out in
>> the Russian tube sweepstakes. Well, I went in with my eyes open, so I'll
>> take my medicine.
>>
>> I am going to run it with plate voltage and current, probably can get
>> nearly 1500 Watts into it. If that makes any improvement, I'll let you
>> all know.
>>
>> Thanks everyone for the advice, I really appreciate it.
>> Bob W4AOS
>>
>
>
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