Diodes on meters wont help much. They will be destroyed by .7 volts which is
were a diode conducts.
Sounds like a bad T/R relay. Clean it up with some de-oxit and some rough
paper or a crisp dollar bill. (or 10 or 20 or 50 or 100 or 500) whatever you
have laying around... :)
73
Jim W7RY
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Darlington
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:32 AM
To: Amps group
Subject: Re: [Amps] Henry 2K-3 amp restore
Confirmed, the front panel does use Sylvania 1815 bulbs and the LED
replacements from Amazon worked just fine. I replaced the little GE 330
bulb in the power switch with an LED equivalent as well. Turns out the
1815 bulb is listed in the parts list and I just missed it the first time
around.
The knobs do use Bristol set screws. Never heard of this standard before
but now I own a small set of them for future work.
Got my first signal report on 40 meters. The guy said I just about knocked
is radio off the bench. Clean and crisp and loud.
And then I went back into the amp last night to add in a pair of diodes on
each meter and to take some pictures. I managed to unstick the sticky
"multi" meter on the left. I pulled the tubes and cleaned the chimneys and
reassembled after doing a little cleaning with a moistened paper towel.
The date code on the tubes is 7813. 13th week of 1978?
And after putting it back together I get no output. I did for a short
while and I'm not at all sure why I'm not getting output now. Only on 80
meters does the thing make the familiar hum and show grid and plate
current. And that's intermittent at best. I have to slam it into position
for it to work. SWR meter on my K3S is moving around a bit. Knocking my
knuckles on the chassis gets it to stop working and I have to give it a
good slam get it to produce power again. Every other band shows high SWR.
Sigh. Time to pull it apart and get it on the bench and rig up a signal
source and scope and troubleshoot. The SWR curve on 80 while it is working
looks to be quite different than it did before I broke it (I used an AA-55
to get a baseline curve and stored them for later comparison). It feels
like there is no input RF connection out to the filaments and yet I do get
output on one band (sometimes).
-Bob
N3XKB
On Mon, Nov 13, 2017 at 10:22 PM, Bob Darlington <rdarlington@gmail.com>
wrote:
Just a quick follow up on the 2K-3 amp and a thank you to all that
responded here on the list and directly to my inbox.
I was able to get the voltage reading in agreement with my external HV
probe by turning the pot in the back right corner nearly to the end of
travel. The needle wanders around with some tapping on the chassis but
not
by much. I'm satisfied for the moment. A couple of you suggested
cleaning
the switch contacts. I will do exactly that once I get the front panel
off
-sometime after I find the proper hex wrench for the band select knob.
The forward and reverse power positions actually do show some meter
movement when I turn the potentiometer to very close to the end of travel.
I think the SWR bridge is just fine. It may be a combo of switch contacts
and a dirty potentiometer acting here. So far so good.
And I now have both front panel bulbs out but did order LED replacements.
I read in a manual for another model Henry that it uses a Sylvania 1815
bulb. I ordered an equivalent and will report back if this is indeed the
correct type or at least correct enough.
I posted pictures to my Google drive for everyone to eyeball if you're
interested. I can't find much info on this particular model so I plan to
write it up and post pictures for the few of us that may want to resurrect
one of these beasts.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1J3YnB489BvUcscwiB6aqKZKiGkN_QrQX
Thank you!
-Bob
N3XKB
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