Some of the tricks and techniques I've been reading here such as using
a torch, filing the barrel, and enlarging the braid holes, indicate a
misunderstanding about how heat should be applied.
I tried some of those methods too before I figured it out. Firstly,
you need a decent i.e. Amphenol male, and copper braid and center
conductor. Dress the cable so the center and braid are appropriately
exposed, no whisker shorts and the barrel screws onto the jacket after
the threaded collar goes on. clamp the cable in a vise close to the
barrel with one of the barrel holes facing up. Now, here's what you
need: A decent temperature controlled Weller solder station with a
700 or 800 degree tip, but not any tip. You should have a broad flat
head tip that resembles the end of a flat head screwdriver, but the
width of the tip should allow it to fit inside the barrel hole. With
the iron heated up, put the tip flat against the braid and apply
solder and let it flow on the braid, filling up the hole. The mistake
everyone makes is they heat the barrel first. You don't get some huge
iron or torch and stand there getting the barrel hot as hell, you
solder to the braid first, let it fill with the solder heating the
barrel, then move the tip around the hole until the solder wicks to
the metal. Quickly release, rotate and clamp the cable in the vise
to the next hole and repeat. The barrel will get hotter as you work
with the solder flow and you'll wind up with four soldered holes. I
think this is the method Jim K9YC was describing. You have to have a
temperature controlled iron that will pull current and stay hot as
heat is sinked out. I use a Weller WTCPT
https://www.rshughes.com/p/Weller-Soldering-Station-00114/037103_00114/
.
73
Rob
K5UJ
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