Kevin,
Are you sure they were not talking about 50' GM towers? Their
standard 18" face designs are freestanding to 50' and use only one set
of guys for a 15 square foot load at 85mph. Guys for these towers are
only T1200 kevlar at a pretension of only 120 pounds. Not much guying
is required even at full load. Of course one pays for it with a
considerably bigger concrete base.
As for the hazard of climbing HAZER equipped rohn 25 towers to hook
and unhook guys:
When I do it, the top set of guys are on and tensioned properly. The
tower does not feel flimsy when climbing to the 30' required to
release/attach guys. In my case the second set of guys are at 65'.
The tower is 70' total. The concern I had what the possibility of
this length of tower buckling. A PE convinced me that as long as I
didn't do something like have the top guys pretensioned to many
thousands of pounds each, it wasn't a real problem.
If you have a real concern, there are attach points on the bottom of
the HAZER for the attachment of temporary guys while doing this.
73 de Brian/K3KO
Kevin Hemsley wrote:
>
> Greetings all:
>
> Since I have had several requests to share the information that I received
> on and off the list regarding the use of guy wires with the Hazer Tram
> system from Glen Martin Engineering, ( http://www.glenmartin.com ) I
> decided to post this to the list, rather than to respond to everyone
> individually.
>
> My initial question to the group was:
>
> > I'm looking for suggestions and caveats on the use of guys with a Hazer.
>
> I received several responses on and off the list. I also called Glen Martin
> Engineering, and posed the same question. Here is a summary of what I
> received from everyone:
>
> KEY POINTS
>
> * Glen Martin stated that a fifty foot tower will require only one set of
> guy wires in most cases. They suggest putting these guys at the very top of
> the tower in the few inches just above the Hazer. To lower a beam antenna,
> disconnect two guys by completely unscrewing the turnbuckles at the ground.
> The guys will then drape in toward the tower. The Hazer can then be lowered
> to the ground. Once down, the guys can be reconnected.
>
> * Beyond 50', multiple guys are required.
>
> * For towers greater than 50' which utilize two or three sets of guys, the
> process to lower a beam is the same as with a single guy, except, that you
> can reconnect the top guys once the antenna is low enough. Then you
> disconnect the next set of guys, and continue to lower the Hazer. This
> process continues until the Hazer tram is safely at the bottom, and all
> necessary guys are reconnected.
>
> * A 70' tower seems to be a common recommended height for a tower using a
> Hazer.
>
> * Purchase a Loose tension gauge to assure all guys are tensioned properly.
>
> * Use fork type ends on the anchor side turnbuckles. This allows you to
> simply unscrew them a bit to loosen up the guy, remove the cotter pin, push
> out the fork pin and the guy end drops away. Much easier than completely
> unscrewing the whole turnbuckle.
>
> * Steel Hazer and the optional roller bearings were recommended by Brian,
> K3KO. They make raising and lowering so much less of a problem. No
> possibility of the Hazer binding on the way up or down.
>
> * Mark where the turnbuckle was tightened to with a felt tipped pen before
> releasing the guys. Makes it much easier to get them close before
> tensioning.
>
> * When using multiple guys on a tower higher than 50', life is a lot easier
> when the top set of guys is attached to the tower above the Hazer and not
> attached to the Hazer itself. There is just enough room. Having guys
> attached to the Hazer leaves you with no guys supporting the top of the
> tower when the middle set of guys are dropped.
>
> * Attach the mid guy wires to the tower with big stainless steel
> carabineers and heavy galvanized chain. I could not find a strong enough
> carabineer which would fit over the tower leg. However, I could find chain
> I could wrap around and hook the carabineer in to. You have to completely
> remove all guys and attachment stuff or the HAZER won't go by.
>
> * When raising the Hazer, life is easier if you temporarily attach the
> lower guys to the Hazer and let the winch do the job of getting them where
> you can re-attach.
>
> * Although not directly related to the use of a Hazer, Bill, N3RR has put
> together an excellent reference on his tower projects with a very detailed
> engineering look from a systems engineering point of view (I like thinking
> of things this way :-) ). http://www.erols.com/n3rr Bill, I derived a lot
> of good thinking out of looking through your nice site. I will be spending
> more time reviewing your notes.
>
> * Various hints and tricks for raising and lowering a Hazer were relayed
> depending on the tower height, and number of guys. These can be read in a
> few of the responses I received listed below:
>
> OTHER RESPONSES
>
> ==============================
> Brian K3KO wrote:
>
> Hi I had 100 ft Rohn 45 with a Hazer track from top to bottom. Guys, all
> Kevlar at 33 66 and 99 ft. Attached to buried cement logs at 80 ft out.
> Wanted to drive a 204BA at the top. Very difficult!
>
> With the top guys attached above the Hazer, here is the lowering process I
> use:
>
> 1) Release two of the three top guys at the anchor end. One guy doesn't
> have to be dropped.
>
> 2) Lower the Hazer to just above the middle set.
>
> 3) Re-attach the top guys and tension them.
>
> 4) Climb the tower and drop the middle set (all 3)
>
> 5) Climb down and lower the Hazer.
>
> 6) Raise Hazer above the lower attach points
>
> 7) Climb up and Re attach and re-tension the middle guys.
>
> 8) Climb down, release two of the 3 top guys
>
> 9) Crank the Hazer all the way up, reattach and retension each of the guys.
>
> ===========================================
> Earl W7TK wrote:
>
> Hi I had 100 ft Rohn 45 with a Hazer track from top to bottom. Guys, all
> Kevlar at 33 66 and 99 ft. Attached to buried cement logs at 80 ft out.
>
> Wanted to drive a 204BA at the top. Very difficult!
>
> You can snap whip around the beam the two bottom guys you loosen to be
> unconnected. Raise the Hazer over the guy point and reconnect 33 ft
> guys. The next set of guys when unconnected took innumerable attempts to
> whip the around the beam. Raise the Hazer reconnect 66 ft guys.No way,
> No how could I snap whip the top two guys at 99 ft.. Plan B. This included
> turning the beam by rotator to get the best slip by angle.
> There is quite a bit of angular play possible.
>
> Plan B was to run a full 200 ft loop of good slippery rope over each end of
> the boom so I could pull up the guy and over the boom. Worked
> snazzy. BUT when I wished to take the dingus down again I had to rely on
> the boom pushing the guy toward the tower and fundamentally that
> left two set of guys unconnected when the beam on the Hazer was at 33 feet.
> Needs promise of absolute calm day or you will find a Plan C.
>
> My Plan C was to sell the whole shooting match and buy a 72 ft UST crank
> down with electric motor.
>
> I was impressed by the workmanship from Glen Martin and their Hazer. I
> should have listened closer while they tried to dissuade me from going
> to 100 ft. I know now why they like 70 ft! I think Kevlar is the cats
> whiskers albeit pricey. That was the first item that sold off!.
>
> I still have the 204BA but put a Tennadyne T10 LPA at mebbe 85 feet. I'm
> happy with that. The Tennadyne seems to like heights above 50 ft
> best. It has ridden through some nasty winds this year.
>
> ===========================
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> ----------------------------------
> Kevin Hemsley
> Systems Engineer
> Microserv Computer Technologies, Inc.
> kev@ida.net
> KB7TYA
>
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> with all of our safety equipment and other products. Stop by booth #559 and
> say hi.
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>
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