he not talking of tinning the pl259- he talking about tinning the outer
shieth of the coax! and, a 40-50 watt IRON with a bout a 1/4 to 3/8 inch
tip ps great for tinning the braid. . a little goes a long way!
(and, for the same reason, to clean pc board holes to remove components,
that why solder wick works, albiet its coated with flux- suckes up solder
like a SPONGE !!) and tin the sheath with solder, and move the IRON around
the sheeth- the solder will flow towards the heat. when too little solder,
it stops flowing- simply apply a LITTLE more, until it is tinned all around-
then use tubeing cutter to trim to center conductor , and place in pl259--
then SWEAT SOLDER (any plumber can show you what is ment by this, on copper
fittings)! jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Hider (N3RR)" <n3rr@erols.com>
To: "David Robbins" <k1ttt@arrl.net>; "'Bill Coleman'" <aa4lr@arrl.net>;
"'Tower Talk'" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Towertalk] Re: Coax Connector Losses - Does anyone know?
> I've never tinned a PL-259 and never heard of anyone else do it, except
> what's been posted today.
>
> I use silver Teflon PL-259 connectors and a Weller D550 soldering gun and
> strip the RG-213 properly. I first solder the center conductor, letting
the
> solder flow up inside the center conductor tip. Then I solder the
connector
> to the shield making sure the solder flows completely through the holes
and
> on the "neck" of the PL-259 - where the holes are located. I roll the
> RG-213 on a table so the connector rolls around as I solder. This allows
> the D550 to heat up the connector and the shield and allows the solder to
> flow into the holes and onto the hot shield of the RG-213.
>
> Bill, N3RR
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Robbins" <k1ttt@arrl.net>
> To: "'Bill Coleman'" <aa4lr@arrl.net>; "'Tower Talk'"
> <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 5:45 PM
> Subject: RE: [Towertalk] Re: Coax Connector Losses - Does anyone know?
>
>
> > First learn to do a real thin smooth tinning job and trim the end of it
> > fairly smooth so it doesn't hang up on the threads or lip inside the
> > pl259. then a SMALL dab of silicone grease on the cut end of the outer
> > jacket does a good job of lubricating the threads as you screw the body
> > of the pl259 on to the coax.
> >
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