Complete station up for sale. includes yaesu ft-1000 mp
ma-770 tower with base
yaesu sdx 800 rotor.
wx0b stack match
2 force 12 c3s antennas with 5kw baluns.
1 cushcraft 40-2 cd with 5kw balun
1 brand new c3ss no balun
1 acom 2000 auto tune amp with tubes
asking $20,000 for all.
All are up you need to come to staten island and take down.
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-request@contesting.com
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Sent: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 46, Issue 47
Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Turnbuckle Vandalism: Waring High RF (Robert Chudek - K?RC)
2. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in thehole?
(Donald Chester)
3. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the hole?
(Dick Green WC1M)
4. rebar DOES cause concrete spalling (FireBrick)
5. RF saftey (Craig Clark)
6. Re: How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the hole?
(Bill Tippett)
7. Re: RF saftey (Craig Clark)
8. How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the hole?
(Karen Ashpole)
9. Re: "Tower in the woods" (k2qmf@juno.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 01:19:03 -0500
From: Robert Chudek - K?RC <k0rc@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Turnbuckle Vandalism: Waring High RF
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <05a301c6edc6$52ff5310$6500a8c0@GX400A>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 20:05:11 -0700
From: gdaught6@stanford.edu
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Turnbuckle Vandalism: Waring High RF
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <452D4E77.26172.2A14323@gdaught6.stanford.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On 11 Oct 2006 at 22:24, Cam and Juli Hedrick wrote:
> The "Known to cause cancer" part was not in seriousness. I do however know
> what a 10kw microwave signal can do to a human with extended exposure and
> it's not a pretty site. The brain damage was severe. No one can tell me
> that RF is safe either and it is hazardous to your health or we would not
> have RF exposure limits in broadcast stations...including Amateur radio
> stations. So it is known to cause damage to the human body.
The whole point at the beginning of this thread was "Find a way to
keep vandals away from my towers/guys/turnbuckles." If a sign saying
that radio waves caused erectile dysfunction and dysmenorrhea would
do the trick, that was the motivation... not the medical validity of
the statement on the sign.
73,
George T. Daughters, K6GT
Well George, then a simple sign like this should do the trick:
TRESPASSERS SHOT FIRST
QUESTIONS ASKED SECOND!
73 de Bob - K?RC in MN
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:02:46 +0000
From: "Donald Chester" <k4kyv@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
thehole?
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <BAY114-F9F6843E29E8D6E457A50CF4150@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I suspended mine from 2 X 4's laid across the hole, using the same kind of
wire I used to tie the pieces of rebar together. After the concrete was
poured, I shoved diagonal cutters down into the poured concrete and clipped
off the wires beneath the surface, and then made sure I smoothed over the
hole where I removed the cutters.
Then I immediately washed the concrete off the cutters.
_______________________________________________________________
This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout.
http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak/
http://gigliwood.com/abcd/
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:14:23 -0400
From: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
the hole?
To: <ersmar@comcast.net>, "'Scotty Rathjen'" <scotty@ashiko.com>,
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Cc: 'Scotty Rathjen' <scotty@ashiko.com>
Message-ID: <BAY103-DAV844DCA2B38B2CED9CDCF88D150@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I recently used the method suggested by Gene and it works well. I used sheet
rock screws instead of nails, but the idea is the same. Basically, you're
using the wires to "guy" the rebar cage in place. I can't recall exactly
when I cut the wires, but it was probably sometime after the concrete was
halfway up the cage.
73, Dick WC1M
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ersmar@comcast.net [mailto:ersmar@comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 8:35 PM
> To: Scotty Rathjen; towertalk@contesting.com
> Cc: Scotty Rathjen
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage
> centered in the hole?
>
> Scotty:
>
> Do NOT use the rebar in the foundation hole as an anchor
> point for your rebar cage. The ends of the rebars sticking
> into the dirt will eventually corrode and follow the rest of
> the rebar into the concrete mass. That could lead to
> cracking, especially that close to the top of the concrete.
> (That's why you're using paving stones in the bottom of the
> hole - to keep the rebar ends out of the dirt - right?)
>
> If you framed out the top of the hole to form a neat
> concrete crown for the top of the concrete pour, you can
> hammer in a few nails around that wooden form, leaving a half
> inch of nail sticking out. Then wrap some rebar wire around
> the upper rebar pieces and use the nails to hold these wire
> pieces in place. That will give some rigidity to your rebar
> cage while the concrete is being poured.
>
> If you did not use wood to form the top of your concrete
> base, then you can hammer some rebars into the dirt ON TOP of
> the ground, then anchor the rebar wires to these rebars.
>
> When the concrete gets near these top pieces of rebar,
> simply cut the wires off the rebar and pull the wires out of
> the form, then finish the pour. There will be enough
> concrete in the hole by that time to keep the rebar from
> moving any more. Don't let the wires stick out of the
> concrete while it's curing - corrosion can find its way into
> the concrete through the corroding wires.
>
> 73 de
> Gene Smar AD3F
>
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Scotty Rathjen" <scotty@ashiko.com>
> > What is the best way to keep the rebar cage in the center
> of the hole
> > as I pour the concrete? The rebar cage is held together
> with wire and
> > when it sits vertical in the hole on the paving stones the
> cage wants
> > to sag against the side of the hole for support. Can I
> pound a 8 inch
> > piece of rebar into the dirt on the inside of the hole wall, a foot
> > from the top, and use a piece of wire to hole the rebar
> cage up in the position I want it to be in?
> > Is this a problem? Is there a better way?
> > 73 and thanks for any and all help.
> > Scotty W7SW
> > W7SW at ARRL dot Net
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > TowerTalk mailing list
> > TowerTalk@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 06:54:54 -0500
From: "FireBrick" <w9ol@billnjudy.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] rebar DOES cause concrete spalling
To: "TowerTalk List" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <00c401c6edf5$3b659000$6401a8c0@MEDIA>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
That was my business. I was one of those guys, you saw on scaffolds hanging on
the side of
buildings repairing concrete, stone, and masonry.
I was a Chicago licensed masonry contractor.
Even on the sides of concrete buildings, rebar, too close to the surface would
adsorb
enough moisture through the concrete to rust.
Rust can cause rebar to increase it's size 11 fold.
That would cause the concrete to spall off, exposing more rebar etc. etc.
I don't know if that's empirical, actual, or just "been dere, made lots of
money
fixing
it" evidence.
Now how long before the bottom of the concrete base spalled off to cause
problems
certainly depends on many factors and I can't predict.
But moisture contact with rebar will cause rust, and will cause concrete to
deteriorate.
-----------------------------------------------------
Cat's Favorite Game - "Ha! Made you look!"
-----------------------------------------------------
Bill H. in Chicagoland
webcams at http://24.14.49.4:8080
weather at http://hhweather.webhop.org
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:49:44 -0400
From: Craig Clark <jcclark@wildblue.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] RF saftey
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061012084718.03d50108@wildblue.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>The "Known to cause cancer" part was not in seriousness. I do however know
>what a 10kw microwave signal can do to a human with extended exposure and
>it's not a pretty site.
The key is you are talking about microwaves not HF signals and the
difference is ionizing versus no ionizing radiation.
back to tower contruction..................................
73, Craig Clark, K1QX
RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
PO BOX 209
RINDGE NH 03461
603 899 6957
WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 08:57:13 -0400
From: Bill Tippett <btippett@alum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in
the hole?
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.0.20061012084642.0201c0b0@alumni.wfu.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
x-avg-checked=avg-ok-437E7ECD
W7SW:
>What is the best way to keep the rebar cage in the center of the hole as I
pour the concrete?
I always attach my first section of
guyed tower to the base and then guy it with 3 wires
to stakes 4-5' away from the base. It's important to
always make sure the base section is plumb so I use a
vertical level on each of the 3 legs when guying. I
then also check it immediately after the concrete is
poured to make sure the concrete pour did not cause
movement. It's very easy to adjust the entire
structure while the concrete is still wet.
The above might not work for crank-ups (no
experience) but it works very well for guyed towers.
73, Bill W4ZV
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 09:54:29 -0400
From: Craig Clark <jcclark@wildblue.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] RF saftey
To: "Darrel J. Van Buer" <darrel@vanbuer.net>
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20061012095236.03d86288@wildblue.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
You're right and, as usual, I am wrong. "Often wrong but never in doubt."
My apologies to the list.
Again, back to towers
At 09:48 10/12/2006, you wrote:
>Note that microwaves are NOT ionizing radiation. You don't get
>ionization until you get into ultraviolet (which is
>why it contributes to skin cancer).
>The hazards from RF are absorption causing heating or high induced
>voltages. Microwaves are the most effectively absorbed.
> Darrel AK6I
>Craig Clark wrote:
>
>>The key is you are talking about microwaves not HF signals and the
>>difference is ionizing versus no ionizing radiation.
>>
>>back to tower contruction..................................
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>73, Craig Clark, K1QX
>>
>>
>>RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
>>PO BOX 209
>>RINDGE NH 03461
>>603 899 6957
>>WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>TowerTalk mailing list
>>TowerTalk@contesting.com
>>http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Darrel J. Van Buer, AK6I
>darrel@vanbuer.net
73, Craig Clark, K1QX
RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
PO BOX 209
RINDGE NH 03461
603 899 6957
WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 06:50:11 -0600
From: "Karen Ashpole" <ruthere_bear02@hotmail.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] How best to keep the rebar cage centered in the
hole?
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Cc: nb7v@msn.com
Message-ID: <BAY121-DAV128DDD138A10A7522EAE1DEF150@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
scotty, nail a 2x4 across the top of the form and tie wire your cage to it.
start your concrete pour in center of the rebar cage, slowly fill the form from
the center first. the concrete in the center will stabilize the cage. Jam an
8
ft 2x4 at an angle thru the cage using it as a lever to hold the cage and move
it as needed.Don,t worry about rusted rebar concrete is pourous ask anyone with
a leaky basement! To judge how long your rebar will last just leave a piece
beside your tower pad.
Dave NB7V
General contractor when not contesting
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 10:51:24 -0400
From: k2qmf@juno.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] "Tower in the woods"
To: w7why@verizon.net
Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <20061012.105129.3256.0.K2QMF@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
YES, without a doubt...
Ted K2QMF
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 19:55:34 -0700 "Tom Osborne" <w7why@verizon.net>
writes:
>
> -----
>
> > Hello All,
> > I have a question about a tower in the woods...
> >
> > If a tower, in the woods, falls over and no one is around
> > would it make any noise???
> >
>
> Or--if a man speaks in the forest and there is not a woman to hear
> him, is
> he still wrong??? 73
>
> Tom W7WHY
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
------------------------------
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