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[TowerTalk] Loos guage

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Loos guage
From: "Thomas Tow" <ttow1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 08:27:23 -0600
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
You can usually buy these at West Marine chain stores nationwide. If not
then check other marine sources such as Boaters World or Boat US. 
73, Tommy WD4K

-----Original Message-----
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[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
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Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 7:36 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 47, Issue 40

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Today's Topics:

   1. Loos gage source. (K8RI on TowerTalk)
   2. Re: Loos gage source. (Chad Kurszewski)
   3. Re: Loos gage source. (K8RI on TowerTalk)
   4. Re: Installing and tensioning guywires (Dick Green WC1M)
   5. TH-11DX questions (David J Windisch)
   6. Re: TH-11DX questions (Doug Renwick)
   7. Re: Common Mode Chokes (Kimo Chun)
   8. Fw: WTS  Rohn EF2545 (Robin)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 00:09:36 -0500
From: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Loos gage source.
To: <TOWERTALK@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c707ab$14c5ae10$6500a8c0@SecondOne>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original

I'm not sure if I spelled that correctly, but I seem to be having a problem 
finding a source for the loos gages.  As I have both the 4400 and 6600# test

Phyllistran cables I need to size gages. The last time this came up I found 
both, but for some reason I'm not able to find them now.

Any suggestions?

Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com 



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 23:19:26 -0600
From: "Chad Kurszewski" <chad.we9v@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Loos gage source.
To: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>,
        TOWERTALK@contesting.com
Message-ID:
        <5fe5ba420611132119v5ba7c072vfffed2c1b21d97@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Champion Radio Products
http://www.championradio.com
Click on the rigging gear link, then towards the bottom of the page.

Chad WE9V

On 11/13/06, K8RI on TowerTalk <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure if I spelled that correctly, but I seem to be having a
> problem
> finding a source for the loos gages.  As I have both the 4400 and 6600#
> test
> Phyllistran cables I need to size gages. The last time this came up I
> found
> both, but for some reason I'm not able to find them now.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
> N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
> www.rogerhalstead.com
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 00:39:57 -0500
From: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Loos gage source.
To: <TOWERTALK@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <005f01c707af$51ee4730$6500a8c0@SecondOne>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original

That's the link I was looking for.
Naturally I need two of them.

Thanks,

Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com 


> Champion Radio Products
> http://www.championradio.com
> Click on the rigging gear link, then towards the bottom of the page.
> 
> Chad WE9V
> 
> On 11/13/06, K8RI on TowerTalk <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net> wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure if I spelled that correctly, but I seem to be having a
>> problem
>> finding a source for the loos gages.  As I have both the 4400 and 6600#
>> test
>> Phyllistran cables I need to size gages. The last time this came up I
>> found
>> both, but for some reason I'm not able to find them now.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
>> N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
>> www.rogerhalstead.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 01:03:40 -0500
From: "Dick Green WC1M" <wc1m@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Installing and tensioning guywires
To: <K7LXC@aol.com>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <BAY103-DAV15301FE93B014788B80F68DEB0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

Thanks to all for the advice.

The procedure was easier than I expected. I had two come-alongs already, so
I got a third. That simplified the process and made it faster. I used my
Klein grip to attach one of the come-alongs and the dynamometer, and used
wire rope clips to attach the cables of the other two come-alongs to their
respective guys. The clips had to be tightened well to keep the guy from
slipping, but did not leave any marks or distortion in the EHS. Whatever the
means of attachment, it's important to put it well ahead of where the grip
will be installed, but not so far (high) that it can't be reached.

I used the Dillon Dynamometer to calibrate the Loos PT-2 gauge. Here are the
results:

Loos       Loos      Dillon
Reading    Chart     Reading

  26       450        300
  27       500        400
  30       660        450
  31       720        500
  32       780        600
  33       840        660
  34       900        700
  35      1000        765
  36      1100        850
  37      1200       1000

As you can see, the Loos reads higher than the dynamometer, but not by a
heck of a lot. I only used the dynamometer to set the initial tension and
calibrate the Loos. Once I put the grips on and removed the come-alongs, I
used the Loos for setting the final tension.

I used the come-alongs to plumb the tower and set the tension to 600 lbs.
Then I installed the grips halfway and used the turnbuckles to increase the
tension to 1000 lbs, which is 15% of breaking strength for 6700 lb
Phillystran. This is the setting recommended on the Phillystran website.
They say the material will "relax" over a period of a few days,
automatically reducing the tension to 10%. See
http://www.phillystran.com/165.htm, "Tensioning Procedures" for more info.

I had initially set the turnbuckles to have 1"-2" of thread engaged on each
rod. I only had to close the turnbuckle by about 2" (i.e., 1" per rod) to
increase the tension from 600 to 1000 lbs. So each rod has about 2" or so of
thread in the turnbuckle. Since tensioning the upper guys will probably
cause the equalizer plate to put more tension on the bottom guys, I'll
probably have to back the turnbuckles out a little. In retrospect, it might
have been better to start will the turnbuckles screwed in a little more. I
did end up closing the grips all the way, but since I've only done that once
I can redo them if it looks like I don't have enough thread left in the
turnbuckle.

40' in the air -- only 70' more to go!

73, Dick WC1M

> -----Original Message-----
> From: K7LXC@aol.com [mailto:K7LXC@aol.com] 
> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 3:34 PM
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Installing and tensioning guywires
> 
>  
> In a message dated 11/12/2006 6:43:07 A.M. Pacific Standard 
> Time, towertalk-request@contesting.com writes:
> 
> >  Hi. Finally started stacking my 110' Rohn 55 tower. We 
> have  40' up 
> > with
> two
> sets of temporary guys (AB-577 stainless guys, actually,  
> which work nicely for temps.) The permanent guys are attached 
> to the guy  bracket at 33' and are ready to be connected to 
> the anchors and tensioned.  The guys are Phillystran, but 
> with EHS leaders at the bottom. I'm using Big  Grips.
> 
> >  I'm curious about the detailed sequence for  tensioning 
> the guys. I 
> > have
> one
> Klein grip and one come-along. I also have  a Dillon 
> Dynamometer and a Loos gauge. I think I understand the 
> general  sequence for tensioning one guy:
> 
> >   1. Attach one end of  come-along to guy anchor
> 2. Attach other end of come-along to Klein  grip 3. Attach 
> Klein grip to EHS ahead of where the big grip is likely to  
> end 4. Unscrew turnbuckle most of the way, leaving about 1-2" 
> of thread  (I'm using 12" turnbuckles) 5. Use come-along to 
> tension the guy near  the final pre-tension figure.
> 6. Install shackle, thimble and big grip on  free end of guy.
> 7. Release come-along.
> 8. Use turnbuckle to reach final  pre-tension.
> 
> >  As for determining tension, my plan is to put  the Dynamometer in 
> > line with
> the come-along and use it in step 5 and to  calibrate the 
> Loos gauge. That way, I can use the Loos gauge to determine  
> tension after I've removed the come-along and  Dynamometer.
> 
> 
>     The sequence is fine. The Loos gauge is pretty  accurate 
> as is but no harm in checking it against your Dillon. 
> Actually I  wouldn't even bother with the Dillon. The Loos is 
> accurate enough and all you  have to do is hang it on the 
> guywire without messing around with the comealong  et al. 
>  
>     You can pull a guywire by hand enough to put a  little 
> tension on it. Do that with all 3 and then take a 
> measurement. For  pre-tension, you just want all of them to 
> be the same regardless of real  tension. Once the tower is 
> plumb, from there just do equal turns of the  turnbuckles. 
> It's easier if you've got someone on each guy and tell them 
> "4  more turns" or whatever until you've got the desired 
> tension. I usually don't  do the final plumb-and-tension 
> until the tower is done. 
> 
> >   What I'm not sure about is how to approach doing all 
> three guys. If  
> > I
> tension the first guy near to the final pre-tension figure, 
> as in step  5, then it seems to me that the tower will be 
> pulled off plumb, and I might  not be able to pull it back by 
> tensioning the other guys. 
>  
>     See comments above. Install the first one with a  little 
> tension and the other 2 the same way. Then go back and put 
> some  measurable pre-tension on them. You won't have enough 
> initial tension to worry  about. 
>  
> >  But if I don't put
> enough tension on the first guy, then I  might run out of 
> thread on its turnbuckle. It would seem like this is an  
> iterative procedure, and that it might require unclamping and 
> retensioning  each cable several times. 
>  
>     That's where 3 comealongs and 3 grips comes in  real 
> handy, but it's not absolutely necessary. You'll have enough 
> scope in  your turnbuckle to handle it. Don't put the 
> PreFormed grip on all the  way. Just wrap it 1/2 way to begin 
> with. That way there'll be enough holding  power to hold the 
> tower up but it'll come off easily if you have to move the  
> guywire. I don't do the grip final wrapping until the tower 
> is finished. 
>  
> >  But to
> do that, I'd have to install, undo and reinstall the  big 
> grips several times, which is not good.
>  
>     You can unwrap the grip twice, giving you 3 tries  to get 
> it right. 
> That's usually enough. 
> 
> >  Am I worrying  needlessly about this (i.e., there will be enough 
> > turnbuckle
> thread) or is  there a trick to this?
> 
> 
> 
>          Yes, you're worrying  a little too much. It's got a 
> little bit of a learning curve but it'll be close  enough 
> after you've been thru an iteration or two and everything's 
> fixable so  you'll eventually be successful. 
>  
> Cheers & GL, 
> Steve       K7LXC
> TOWER TECH -
> Professional tower services for hams
> Cell: 206-890-4188
> 
> 



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 06:30:02 -0500
From: "David J Windisch" <davidjw@cinci.rr.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] TH-11DX questions
To: <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <002401c707e0$39cb1df0$6401a8c0@david3yidgzv9b>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

1.  Pros and cons on the rope element dampeners?

2.  Is it worthwhile to replace those wire pigtails with same-length
small-diameter aluminum refrigeration tubes?

3.  Set lengths for PHONE/DX Setting/MARS?

4.   Anything else I need to know, pls?

TIA & 73, Dave, N3HE

------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 07:12:32 -0600
From: Doug Renwick <ve5ra@sasktel.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TH-11DX questions
To: 'David J Windisch' <davidjw@cinci.rr.com>,
        TowerTalk@contesting.com
Message-ID: <001301c707ee$99ff8860$0c68a58e@user6e475fdac4>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1250

You should always use rope element dampeners to prevent the
element tips from vibrating, breaking and falling off.  Good
insurance.

Doug/VA5DX


Subject: [TowerTalk] TH-11DX questions

1.  Pros and cons on the rope element dampeners?



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No virus found in this outgoing message.
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Date: 11/9/2006
 



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 09:18:09 -1000
From: "Kimo Chun" <kimo@lava.net>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Common Mode Chokes
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Message-ID: <000601c70758$74ed8c70$3500000a@TOSHIBAKimo>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

Jim,

 

Thank you. I did look at both your paper for the society and the Power Point
data (plus more at your site). I was in a hurry to get new filters ready for
our work scheduled this past weekend so I didn't contact you or Chuck for
clarifications of questions that came to mind when I read and compared the
two articles on some of the exact points you made. I look forward to your
paper intended for radio amateurs.

 

Note: Your paper to the society is basically the same as the other document
listed earlier (higher) on your site and it prints out perfectly. The other
one only prints out your charts and such with no text (I either
selected-all, cut and pasted it into Word or perhaps just tried to print the
HTML data). I'm afraid I still do better reading from paper than from a
computer screen when I want to refer back and forth to earlier text or
graphics. So much for the "paperless society".

 

I will try to use your design and see in practice whether one core will do
as well as you say. Then I'll have many cores left over to use elsewhere.

I'll report back our results.

 

73, Aloha

 

Kimo Chun, KH7U

 



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 12:55:25 -0800
From: "Robin" <wb6tza@socal.rr.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Fw: WTS  Rohn EF2545
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>, "sbms" <sbms@ham-radio.com>,    "cactus
        reflector" <cactus-intertie@stat.com>
Message-ID: <037701c70766$1a74f680$0ca0a8c0@updadp2400>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=response

Gin Pole is sold
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin" <wb6tza@socal.rr.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 23:50
Subject: WTS Rohn EF2545


>I have a brand new, still in the wrapping, Rohn EF2545 Gin Pole assembly. 



------------------------------

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