On 2/28/2013 4:41 PM, John E. Cleeve wrote:
Hello Roger
The scrap aluminium tube I used has a wall thickness of about 0.75 inches,
Now THAT is "thick" and certainly substantial<:-))
73
Roger (K8RI)any10cats
the object being try and find bearings/materials that I could fairly
easily fit together in order to fabricate the housing with minimal machine
shop access. Having done the bench metal cutting etc. I did get the edges
etc. cleaned up by asking for help from a local machine shop, otherwise,
the original 1979 bearing assembly was a true amateur radio "kitchen
table" product.
73, John. G3JVC/GM3JVC.
On 2/28/2013 3:17 PM, John E. Cleeve wrote:
Gentlemen,
I have read the thread with interest, and here is my solution. Back in
1978, and in order to cope with the likely forces applied to a tower top
thrust race, I looked at the commercial products available but chose to
"engineer" my own, making use of roller bearings to provide a more
effective solution.
I looked for taper roller bearings with a centre bore of 2 inches or
more,
and by using a commercially available two part metal collar, clamped
around the antenna support shaft, with the lower edge of the collar
resting on the edge of the inner ring of the taper roller bearing, as
the
antenna shaft passed down through the bearing, the weight of the antenna
is transferred to the inner ring of the bearing. The taper aspect of the
roller bearing performance will cope with any radial forces applied to
the
bearing.
New, taper roller bearings are quite expensive,
I agree but, I've found wheel bearings to be relatively inexpensive new.
but a metal scrap/vehicle
breakers yard will provide a very cheap source, especially if you are
prepared and able to remove them yourself. The taper roller bearings I
used, came from the rear wheel hubs of scrapped heavy goods vehicles,
and
they are more than capable of handling the largest antenna related
stress,
and better still, cheap, they cost about $1 each!
Of course, the bearing unit requires a "housing" in order to be fitted
to
the tower top plate, but again, the same scrap source provided short
lengths of suitably sized, thick walled aluminium tube,
Depends on what you mean by thick walled. I prefer a substantial
retainer with the bearing pressed in. I also prefer an over sixe ID
with an adapter that has a shoulder, that is a slip fit on the shaft,
but pressed into the bearing. If the shoulder is large enough I can
drill and tap it, allowing me to lock to the mast to support it for
rotator removal.
My rotator, a PST-61 has wheel bearings top and bottom so it can
tolerate long masts through thrust bearings that might pull o the
rotator due to unequal expansion and contraction with temperature.
73
Roger (K8RI)
in the form of
scrap "offcuts" sold by weight. I was able to fabricate a very
acceptable
"product", and fitted with a suitable weather protection "hat", i.e a
scrap aluminium container lid, and the bearing well packed with grease,
one such unit has been in position since 1979.
Sincerely, John. G3JVC/GM3JVC.
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