Just to point it out if it is not common knowledge, but straight threads are
incapable of self sealing by their very nature. Tapered threads are required
to obtain the mechanical interference needed to obtain a seal. Compounds and
tape help, but a proper pipe joint should seal without them.
On the other hand, UHF connectors leak everywhere, so it seems kind of
pointless to me to pay any special attention to the threads.
Al
AB2ZY
________________________________________
From: TowerTalk <[email protected]> on behalf of Hans
Hammarquist via TowerTalk <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 9:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TowerTalk] Fwd: Fwd: sealing PL259's
Thomas,
I have no idea what it contains only that it you don't put it on, the fitting
will leak no matter how hard you tighten it. (My brother-in-law had that
experience.)
A limited amount on the threaded part shouldn't interfere with the "electrical'
part. It should have some sort of sealing function. (I still missing some
"spring" function of the PL-256 to ensure a proper outer connection. Maybe that
could be an improved PL-256 (PL-256-S :). Some type of built -in weather seal
would also not hurt.)
Hans - N2JFS
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Noel <[email protected]>
To: Hans Hammarquist <[email protected]>
Cc: towertalk <[email protected]>
Sent: Tue, May 26, 2015 2:31 pm
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Fwd: sealing PL259's
Hans,
Both pipe dope and teflon tape are primarily lubricants to enable tightening
the fittings enough to achieve a seal. The thread dope is a mix of lubricant
grease and microscopic metallic particles to help prevent galling. I would be
concerned about putting a conductive grease in a fitting that needs two
distinct conductors.
Thomas W Noel
KF7RSF
On May 26, 2015, at 10:25 AM, Hans Hammarquist via TowerTalk <
[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Jim,
I was thinking about the "gray" thread sealer that doesn't harden. It
would also be out of the UV-radiation being inside the threads. Should be no
problem, more than cleaning the gook off.
I don't like to "tighten with pliers" when you have a knurled surface on
the nut (or screw for that matter). It's needed for the UHF connector but not
on the N (or TNC) for a proper connection.
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