My USTower would not descend tonight in anticipation of the high winds. The
motor shaft needed a little WD-40 and a hefty pipe wrench,to,start the
rotation. Don't wait to do your service. A little oil now may save your motor
and your tower from wind damage.
Ron Morgan, KB9NW
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 6:14 PM, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
>
> Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Nord-Lock on Amazon (AA6DX - Mark)
> 2. Re: [Bulk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee (Jim Brown)
> 3. Re: New Tower Install (h.duck)
> 4. Re: Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee (Dan Maguire)
> 5. Re: [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator (Les Kalmus)
> 6. Re: Lifting a mast off the rotator (Earl Morse)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:20:50 -0700
> From: "AA6DX - Mark" <aa6dx@arrl.net>
> To: "TT" <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Nord-Lock on Amazon
> Message-ID: <EE58EE8BF0D949A1A20EA0CBDDF77047@AA6DX>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> I keep learning! Did not even know about Nord-Lock washers, but I do now!
> Worky-worky!
> 73 -- Mark 73 years young! AA6DX ? Eureka
> http://tinyurl.com/ze52acx
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:23:17 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable
> Dipole/Vee
> Message-ID: <571E98D5.3020606@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Sure, that's a great method, but this question is about something simple
> to take camping.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>> On Mon,4/25/2016 2:49 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
>> I think the simplest broadband 80m dipole is the one W6RNL/W6NL
>> proposed. Resonate at 3675, then 1/2wl of 50 ohm coax to the
>> feedpoint, then 1/4wl of 75 ohm coax, then any length of 50 ohm you like.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:28:15 -0500
> From: "h.duck" <h.duck@ameritech.net>
> To: "Dan Cisson" <n4gnr@windstream.net>, "'Rob Matherly'"
> <jimrob@gmail.com>, <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
> Message-ID: <B39943EF65EB4806B7E2D3E871EEA5B9@lenovo>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> I don't think you can have copper directly contacting galvanized metal. You
> must use s.s. between or an appropriate compound, however, I am not sure
> what that compound should be.
>
> Howard
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Cisson" <n4gnr@windstream.net>
> To: "'Rob Matherly'" <jimrob@gmail.com>; <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 5:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
>
>
>> Rob,,,, first... your base is quite a bit of overkill...For Rohn 25 you
>> only need 4 X 4 X 4 at the most...I think 3 X 3 X 3 is plenty.
>> Before that amount of concrete can move the tower will buckle. Rohn 25
>> is
>> designed not to go over 30 ft without guy wires.(freestanding)
>> And with very little wind load (antenna). 50 ft of unguyed tower is
>> asking
>> for a disaster !!!!!
>> A friend of mine in Kentucky, K8MWO, has a 50 ft with a hazer, and a
>> KT36XA.
>> He has it guyed once I think at 40 ft. He drops the guys with no wind
>> blowing, and the hazer comes down and he says maneuvering the guys around
>> the hazer travel
>> Is the "tricky" part of it. But he has NO PROBLEM with this set up. He
>> will
>> gladly answer any emails to help you with a similar setup
>> As far as grounding,,, ground rods should NEVER go inside concrete. I
>> ground my tower with a 10 ft rod at each leg, with solid copper
>> Coming off each leg to the rod. Be sure and ground the guy cables at each
>> anchor with at least an 8 ft rod. You can spend as money on grounding
>> As you wish,, but this is a good reasonable setup. I would avoid cadwelds.
>> 2
>> clamps per leg, and 2 on the rod,, you will do good. Do NOT use anything
>> That will rust up for clamping. If you can get a ground off your electric
>> service to the tower grounds,-even better.
>> Your 3 inch pipe WILL get water in it... drill some small drain holes at
>> the lowest point. If the pipe is laying in a small bed of gravel,, this
>> will
>> Enhance draining,, and not get dirt clogging the holes.
>> AND all this is MY OPINION... Good Luck,,, Dan N4GNR
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Rob
>> Matherly
>> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 5:42 PM
>> To: TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> Subject: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
>>
>> Hi All -
>>
>> First time poster to the list, long-time lurker.
>>
>> I'm getting set to install my first tower after having been in the hobby
>> for nearly 20 years. I'm going to install 40' of Rohn25 with a Hazer.
>> I'm
>> going to set it in a 4x4x5 block of concrete that I have the option to
>> make
>> it taller later on (without the Hazer, of course.)
>>
>> Please advise if I am correct: I do not need to guy the tower given the
>> base size and height, correct? I've been told I can go up to 50' unguyed
>> by some, but others say anything over 40' needs guyed.
>>
>> Regarding grounding: I've seen different ways of doing it. What is the
>> best way to ground the tower? Rod at the bottom of the hole? Rod to the
>> side of the slab?
>>
>> I'm going to feed it underground with a 3" CPVC line coming up into a
>> weatherproof box mounted a short distance from the tower. Do I need to
>> tie
>> the ground bus in the cabinet to the ground in the tower, or do I need to
>> keep them separate?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rob
>> w0jrm
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>>
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>> No virus found in this message.
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>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 22:38:11 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Dan Maguire <djm2150@yahoo.com>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee
> Message-ID:
> <175376733.1667148.1461623891631.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Grant keeps giving me these opportunities! This time he wrote:
>
>>>> Resonate at 3675, then 1/2wl of 50 ohm coax to the feedpoint, then 1/4wl
>>>> of 75 ohm coax, then any length of 50 ohm you like.
>
> This scenario was written up as an AutoEZ example. See the fourth bullet
> here:
>
> http://ac6la.com/aecollection5.html
>
> If you are an EZNEC user and you have Microsoft Excel available you can run
> this example using the free Demo version of AutoEZ, downloadable from here:
>
> http://ac6la.com/aepurchase.html
>
> Dan, AC6LA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:53:50 -0400
> From: Les Kalmus <w2lk@bk-lk.com>
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
> Message-ID: <0621391f-89a0-3d1a-89d2-0414f0c9d6b6@bk-lk.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Very interesting Grant. Thanks.
>
> The 1/4" bolt sits on a split lock washer on top of a 1/2 tall spacer
> which rests on the drive plate. The centering block is a later style
> that has a recess that sits over the 1/4" bolt.
>
> Do you think the Nord lock will work on this spacer? The spacer is free
> to rotate with vibration and I think it's bound to come loose again.
> Or... a Nord lock above and one below the spacer? Where can I buy just a
> few SS 1/4" Nord locks?
>
> Of course, the other option is to not use the centering block but it
> makes getting things in alignment very easy.
>
> Les W2LK
>
>
>
>> On 4/25/2016 10:41 AM, Grant Saviers wrote:
>> The used OR-2800 was driving a 3" mast, but I have one driving a 2"
>> without a centering block w/o problems (so far) but a bigger load is
>> going onto the 2" mast shortly.
>>
>> Medium strength Loctite is a good idea if the internal threads can be
>> degreased. Instead of a split ring washer, I use Nord-Locks for
>> critical fasteners. Check out their video re locking fastener tests.
>>
>> http://cdn.nord-lock.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Nord-Lock-Junker-test-HD_1280x720.mp4
>>
>>
>>
>> Grant KZ1W
>>
>>> On 4/24/2016 21:00 PM, Jim Thomson wrote:
>>> Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:05:13 -0700
>>> From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
>>> To: Les Kalmus <w2lk@bk-lk.com>, TOWERTALK@contesting.com
>>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
>>> Les,
>>>
>>> On a used 2800 I acquired the prior owner had secured a cut off box end
>>> wrench on the center bolt with a screw through the wrench handle and
>>> threaded into the Orion plate about 2" out from the bolt, oriented so
>>> the split mast clamp clears the wrench. Now I know why he did that.
>>>
>>> Grant KZ1W
>>>
>>> ## slick idea, but it wont work if the optional m2 self centering
>>> 1/2 inch thick,
>>> triangular chunk of AL is used. When the self centering device is
>>> use, a really
>>> long 1/4-20 SS bolt is provided.... to get from top of self
>>> centering block....
>>> all the way through the block, then to the threads in the steel base
>>> plate.
>>>
>>> ## I have 2 of the OR-2800 rotors.... and the self centering block
>>> is only required
>>> if a 2 inch mast is used. And even then, its really not required
>>> with a 2 inch mast.
>>>
>>> ## The self centering block is pyramid shaped, and the entire
>>> block fits inside a
>>> 2 inch mast. Dunno if it will still fit inside a 2 inch mast, that
>>> has a .375 wall thickness.
>>>
>>> ## If a 2 inch mast used, the clamp would normally be adjusted so
>>> its just a bit bigger
>>> than 2 inch. If 2 x thrust bearings are used, the self centering
>>> device is def not required.
>>>
>>> ## I would not use it. Instead use the shorter 1/4-20 bolt....
>>> but use some blue loctite
>>> on the threads. Purple locite is slightly weaker than blue
>>> loctite..and will also work. Or at
>>> least use a SS split ring lockwasher on top of a SS fllatwasher,
>>> below the bolt head.
>>>
>>> ## the scissor jack is a good idea. The simple bottle jacks will
>>> also work, but have a limited
>>> amount of vertical lift distance. Cheap, and available from 1/2 to
>>> 20 ton. The issue with bottle jacks is:
>>> you can precisely control the lifting function..... but when u go to
>>> let it down, it comes down quickly.
>>>
>>> Jim VE7RF
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> TowerTalk mailing list
>>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:14:04 -0700
> From: "Earl Morse" <kz8e@wt.net>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
> Message-ID: <20160425161404.4E6B4E20@m0087796.ppops.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Two muffler clamps holding a threaded quick link to the mast and a
> come-a-long hooked to that has allowed me to jack up the 300+ lbs of antenna
> and mast. Have hooked from the bottom of the mast too but that gets in the
> way when you have to insert into the rotor.
>
> Earl
> N8SS
>
> --- towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 00:13:20 -0400
> From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
> Message-ID: <571D9960.4000003@tm.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I have a "pry bar" that the end will fit under the mast in my PST61,
> The pivot point is only a couple inches from the end while the bar is
> about 2' long, that gives me a 2: 22 multiple (11:1 ), or 400#/11 = 36#
> on the lever to lift 400. Using that in my system allows me to lift the
> mast about 1"
> On my system when we installed the antennas, I simply used a u-bolt
> clamp, to serve as an anchor point on the mast for a come along.this
> lifted the mast with the antennas in place. The mast was then clamped
> in place using a thrust bearing, A 1" block was placed on top of the
> PST61, centered under the mast clamp the come along was hooked to the
> u-bolt mast clamp and used to lower the mast into the rotator mast clamp
> and onto that 1" block for spacing.
>
> Possibly some of this may be of help giving you ideas.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>
>
> ---
>
> End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 160, Issue 82
> ******************************************
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 160, Issue 92
> ******************************************
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