good point Kevin,
Ron was able to free up the motor shaft with the WD40 and get it running.
An application of lube would be good now to follow up.
WD40 is mostly a solvent and very little actual lubricant. It is a
great penetrating "cleaner" and is well suited to what Ron was doing in
freeing up the motor shaft.
I would use Boeshield T-9 as a lubricant for this. It is a rust
inhibitor, displaces moisture, and lubricates.
It is used a lot in the aircraft industry.
I first learned about Boeshield at a high end bicycle shop for racing
bikes.
I saw them spraying WD-40 on a dirty bicycle chain and then spinning the
crank, then repeating
this and then spinning the chain thru a rag. I asked why they were
lubricating with WD40 as I thought
it was a poor lubricant. He said they first use the WD40 and spin the
chain to clean it, not to lubricate it.
The WD40 penetrates into the links and flushes out the crud. Then after
it is thoroughly flushed and spun thru
a rag to dry the chain they spray the chain with Boeshield T-9 for
lubrication. There are a number of
chain lubes available but they had the best results with Boeshield.
I know I sound like a Boeshield sales rep, hihi but I have had very
good results with their product.
73,
Bob
K6UJ
On 4/25/16 4:29 PM, Kevin Kidd wrote:
Just a side note... WD40 isn't very good at lubricating. It is good at
penetrating and short term lube but should be supplemented with another oil
suitable for the application.
Kevin C. Kidd, CSRE/AMD
AM Ground Systems Company - WD4RAT
kkidd@kkbc.com -- 866-22-RADIO -- 866-227-2346
www.amgroundsystems.com
On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 6:20 PM, Ron Morgan via TowerTalk <
towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:
My USTower would not descend tonight in anticipation of the high winds.
The motor shaft needed a little WD-40 and a hefty pipe wrench,to,start the
rotation. Don't wait to do your service. A little oil now may save your
motor and your tower from wind damage.
Ron Morgan, KB9NW
On Apr 25, 2016, at 6:14 PM, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
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than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Nord-Lock on Amazon (AA6DX - Mark)
2. Re: [Bulk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee (Jim Brown)
3. Re: New Tower Install (h.duck)
4. Re: Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee (Dan Maguire)
5. Re: [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator (Les Kalmus)
6. Re: Lifting a mast off the rotator (Earl Morse)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:20:50 -0700
From: "AA6DX - Mark" <aa6dx@arrl.net>
To: "TT" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Nord-Lock on Amazon
Message-ID: <EE58EE8BF0D949A1A20EA0CBDDF77047@AA6DX>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
I keep learning! Did not even know about Nord-Lock washers, but I do
now! Worky-worky!
73 -- Mark 73 years young! AA6DX ? Eureka
http://tinyurl.com/ze52acx
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 15:23:17 -0700
From: Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable
Dipole/Vee
Message-ID: <571E98D5.3020606@audiosystemsgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
Sure, that's a great method, but this question is about something simple
to take camping.
73, Jim K9YC
On Mon,4/25/2016 2:49 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
I think the simplest broadband 80m dipole is the one W6RNL/W6NL
proposed. Resonate at 3675, then 1/2wl of 50 ohm coax to the
feedpoint, then 1/4wl of 75 ohm coax, then any length of 50 ohm you
like.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 17:28:15 -0500
From: "h.duck" <h.duck@ameritech.net>
To: "Dan Cisson" <n4gnr@windstream.net>, "'Rob Matherly'"
<jimrob@gmail.com>, <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
Message-ID: <B39943EF65EB4806B7E2D3E871EEA5B9@lenovo>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
I don't think you can have copper directly contacting galvanized metal.
You
must use s.s. between or an appropriate compound, however, I am not sure
what that compound should be.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Cisson" <n4gnr@windstream.net>
To: "'Rob Matherly'" <jimrob@gmail.com>; <TowerTalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
Rob,,,, first... your base is quite a bit of overkill...For Rohn 25 you
only need 4 X 4 X 4 at the most...I think 3 X 3 X 3 is plenty.
Before that amount of concrete can move the tower will buckle. Rohn 25
is
designed not to go over 30 ft without guy wires.(freestanding)
And with very little wind load (antenna). 50 ft of unguyed tower is
asking
for a disaster !!!!!
A friend of mine in Kentucky, K8MWO, has a 50 ft with a hazer, and a
KT36XA.
He has it guyed once I think at 40 ft. He drops the guys with no wind
blowing, and the hazer comes down and he says maneuvering the guys
around
the hazer travel
Is the "tricky" part of it. But he has NO PROBLEM with this set up. He
will
gladly answer any emails to help you with a similar setup
As far as grounding,,, ground rods should NEVER go inside concrete. I
ground my tower with a 10 ft rod at each leg, with solid copper
Coming off each leg to the rod. Be sure and ground the guy cables at
each
anchor with at least an 8 ft rod. You can spend as money on grounding
As you wish,, but this is a good reasonable setup. I would avoid
cadwelds.
2
clamps per leg, and 2 on the rod,, you will do good. Do NOT use anything
That will rust up for clamping. If you can get a ground off your
electric
service to the tower grounds,-even better.
Your 3 inch pipe WILL get water in it... drill some small drain holes
at
the lowest point. If the pipe is laying in a small bed of gravel,, this
will
Enhance draining,, and not get dirt clogging the holes.
AND all this is MY OPINION... Good Luck,,, Dan N4GNR
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
Rob
Matherly
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 5:42 PM
To: TowerTalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] New Tower Install
Hi All -
First time poster to the list, long-time lurker.
I'm getting set to install my first tower after having been in the hobby
for nearly 20 years. I'm going to install 40' of Rohn25 with a Hazer.
I'm
going to set it in a 4x4x5 block of concrete that I have the option to
make
it taller later on (without the Hazer, of course.)
Please advise if I am correct: I do not need to guy the tower given the
base size and height, correct? I've been told I can go up to 50'
unguyed
by some, but others say anything over 40' needs guyed.
Regarding grounding: I've seen different ways of doing it. What is the
best way to ground the tower? Rod at the bottom of the hole? Rod to
the
side of the slab?
I'm going to feed it underground with a 3" CPVC line coming up into a
weatherproof box mounted a short distance from the tower. Do I need to
tie
the ground bus in the cabinet to the ground in the tower, or do I need
to
keep them separate?
Thanks
Rob
w0jrm
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 22:38:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: Dan Maguire <djm2150@yahoo.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rehash of 80 CW/SSB Switchable Dipole/Vee
Message-ID:
<175376733.1667148.1461623891631.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Grant keeps giving me these opportunities! This time he wrote:
Resonate at 3675, then 1/2wl of 50 ohm coax to the feedpoint, then
1/4wl of 75 ohm coax, then any length of 50 ohm you like.
This scenario was written up as an AutoEZ example. See the fourth
bullet here:
http://ac6la.com/aecollection5.html
If you are an EZNEC user and you have Microsoft Excel available you can
run this example using the free Demo version of AutoEZ, downloadable from
here:
http://ac6la.com/aepurchase.html
Dan, AC6LA
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 18:53:50 -0400
From: Les Kalmus <w2lk@bk-lk.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
Message-ID: <0621391f-89a0-3d1a-89d2-0414f0c9d6b6@bk-lk.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Very interesting Grant. Thanks.
The 1/4" bolt sits on a split lock washer on top of a 1/2 tall spacer
which rests on the drive plate. The centering block is a later style
that has a recess that sits over the 1/4" bolt.
Do you think the Nord lock will work on this spacer? The spacer is free
to rotate with vibration and I think it's bound to come loose again.
Or... a Nord lock above and one below the spacer? Where can I buy just a
few SS 1/4" Nord locks?
Of course, the other option is to not use the centering block but it
makes getting things in alignment very easy.
Les W2LK
On 4/25/2016 10:41 AM, Grant Saviers wrote:
The used OR-2800 was driving a 3" mast, but I have one driving a 2"
without a centering block w/o problems (so far) but a bigger load is
going onto the 2" mast shortly.
Medium strength Loctite is a good idea if the internal threads can be
degreased. Instead of a split ring washer, I use Nord-Locks for
critical fasteners. Check out their video re locking fastener tests.
http://cdn.nord-lock.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Nord-Lock-Junker-test-HD_1280x720.mp4
Grant KZ1W
On 4/24/2016 21:00 PM, Jim Thomson wrote:
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2016 20:05:13 -0700
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
To: Les Kalmus <w2lk@bk-lk.com>, TOWERTALK@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
Les,
On a used 2800 I acquired the prior owner had secured a cut off box end
wrench on the center bolt with a screw through the wrench handle and
threaded into the Orion plate about 2" out from the bolt, oriented so
the split mast clamp clears the wrench. Now I know why he did that.
Grant KZ1W
## slick idea, but it wont work if the optional m2 self centering
1/2 inch thick,
triangular chunk of AL is used. When the self centering device is
use, a really
long 1/4-20 SS bolt is provided.... to get from top of self
centering block....
all the way through the block, then to the threads in the steel base
plate.
## I have 2 of the OR-2800 rotors.... and the self centering block
is only required
if a 2 inch mast is used. And even then, its really not required
with a 2 inch mast.
## The self centering block is pyramid shaped, and the entire
block fits inside a
2 inch mast. Dunno if it will still fit inside a 2 inch mast, that
has a .375 wall thickness.
## If a 2 inch mast used, the clamp would normally be adjusted so
its just a bit bigger
than 2 inch. If 2 x thrust bearings are used, the self centering
device is def not required.
## I would not use it. Instead use the shorter 1/4-20 bolt....
but use some blue loctite
on the threads. Purple locite is slightly weaker than blue
loctite..and will also work. Or at
least use a SS split ring lockwasher on top of a SS fllatwasher,
below the bolt head.
## the scissor jack is a good idea. The simple bottle jacks will
also work, but have a limited
amount of vertical lift distance. Cheap, and available from 1/2 to
20 ton. The issue with bottle jacks is:
you can precisely control the lifting function..... but when u go to
let it down, it comes down quickly.
Jim VE7RF
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:14:04 -0700
From: "Earl Morse" <kz8e@wt.net>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
Message-ID: <20160425161404.4E6B4E20@m0087796.ppops.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Two muffler clamps holding a threaded quick link to the mast and a
come-a-long hooked to that has allowed me to jack up the 300+ lbs of
antenna and mast. Have hooked from the bottom of the mast too but that
gets in the way when you have to insert into the rotor.
Earl
N8SS
--- towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2016 00:13:20 -0400
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Lifting a mast off the rotator
Message-ID: <571D9960.4000003@tm.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I have a "pry bar" that the end will fit under the mast in my PST61,
The pivot point is only a couple inches from the end while the bar is
about 2' long, that gives me a 2: 22 multiple (11:1 ), or 400#/11 = 36#
on the lever to lift 400. Using that in my system allows me to lift the
mast about 1"
On my system when we installed the antennas, I simply used a u-bolt
clamp, to serve as an anchor point on the mast for a come along.this
lifted the mast with the antennas in place. The mast was then clamped
in place using a thrust bearing, A 1" block was placed on top of the
PST61, centered under the mast clamp the come along was hooked to the
u-bolt mast clamp and used to lower the mast into the rotator mast clamp
and onto that 1" block for spacing.
Possibly some of this may be of help giving you ideas.
73
Roger (K8RI)
---
End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 160, Issue 82
******************************************
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