The method I suggest is to take about 2-3' of that 1 1/2 water pipe, buy a
cast iron end cap for it and slam it up and down on the ground rod until the
top is within a couple of feet of the ground. Use a sledge for the last
couple of feet.
I can drive a ground rod in just a couple of minutes without breaking a
sweat.
You can also buy a steel fence post driver that has handles on the sides of
the pipe. But trust me the water pipe and end cap works just as well.
Of course I am too cheap for either option. I have a piece of scrap that
fits this description that was given to me by another ham!
73--
Dave Armbrust - AE4MR
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
> [mailto:owner-towertalk@contesting.com]On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 10:17 AM
> To: Avila, Edward; 'Jim McDonald'; 'towertalk@contesting.com'
> Subject: RE: [TowerTalk] Sinking ground rods
>
>
> On 1/16/01 11:50 AM, Avila, Edward at EAvila@caiso.com wrote:
>
> >There was an short article in QST years ago that described
> solution....dig
> >as wide and deep a hole as you can, then pour a small amount of
> water into
> >hole, let it soak in then start driving the ground into the
> ground.....when
> >it stops going easily, repeater the water soaking and drive the rod down
> >some more until it stops going easily.
> >
> >Jim, since I read this idea I've been very successful installing
> 8' rods in
> >nasty hardpan in our part of the world with a lot less effort and pain!
>
> This has been brought up over and over on TowerTalk.
>
> While using water methods (either the puddle technique described above,
> or the attach-a-hose-to-copper-pipe and push it in method) may be an easy
> way to install a ground rod -- it suffers from one failing: the water
> displaces the soil, which destroys the effective contact of the rod with
> the ground.
>
> The whole idea of putting in a ground rod is to get good contact with the
> soil. Since this method destroys contact with the soil, I wouldn't
> recommend it.
>
> I've built a ground-rod driver using a 12" steel nipple, some fittings
> and some hand weights and collars from a weight set. It allows you to
> drive the ground rod in without missing. When you get it within 1 foot of
> the surface, drive it the rest of the way with a sledgehammer.
>
> The alternatives of using a jackhammer, hammer drill or other power
> driver, or even a fence post driver will ensure much better soil contact
> with the rod compared with the water methods, and they aren't any harder.
>
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa4lr@arrl.net
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
> -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
>
>
> --
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
> Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
--
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
|