Well, you *can* but you have to bypass the limit switch at the control
box. If you do that, you can rock it is needed but also damage the gears
if you truly run it's ring gear limit.
Kim N5OP
On 4/5/2021 12:45 PM, Steven Katz wrote:
The only time I've experienced a "stuck" T2X is when the rotator is at or nearly at its
stop point (for me, due South) so "rocking" it out of lock is impossible.
Once that happened exactly once, I learned to never stop it at due South again!
😊 Lucky for me, there's virtually nothing due south of here, anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Robert Harmon
Sent: Monday, April 5, 2021 10:41 AM
To: TowerTalk <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotor Cabling Query
I see what you mean. Oh well, so much for that idea .......................
Bob
K6UJ
On Apr 5, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Steven Katz
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
How will it rotate at all without the brake power engaged? That's what
"releases" the brake. Unpowered, it's engaged.
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> On
Behalf Of Robert
Harmon
Sent: Monday, April 5, 2021 10:18 AM
To: TowerTalk <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotor Cabling Query
So will the HyGain Tailtwister hold securely with no creeping if I disconnect
the brake wire ? I have had the typical stuck brake scenario with my old Tail
Twisters in the past and I like the
idea of not using the brake circuit if possible. I always let it coast to a
stop anyway. I have a new TailTwister replacement going up in a couple of
weeks.
Bob
K6UJ
On Apr 5, 2021, at 9:56 AM, [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
You can save a lot of heavy gauge wire by using a rotator without a brake. A
brake adds controller complexity, it sometimes sticks and it requires two extra
conductors. I believe only Hy-Gain uses brakes. I have not owned a rotator with
a brake in decades and even my 60 ft boom antennas to not creep in the wind.
John KK9A
Lux, Jim wrote:
The brake draws 5A @ 24V according to the manual. You probably need
20V or so minimum, so for 1400 ft (out and back), to keep the voltage
drop at 6V from the usual 26V transformer, the resistance has to be
less than about an ohm. AWG10 is 1 ohm/1000 ft. So you'd need what, AWG 8?
That's a pretty substantial expense.
The manual calls for AWG14 for 300 ft. You're running more than twice
that, so to keep the resistance the same, you need to go down 3
gauges
(3 gauges is twice the area/half the resistance). They call out AWG16
for most of the other wires than the common and brake. (The motor
draws
2.25A)
Someone probably makes a suitable interface (Green Heron?).
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