[Amps] TL922 Power Plugs

Gary Patterson gpatterson53 at hotmail.com
Thu Nov 5 08:13:21 PST 2009


I am confused,   does return current actually go through "dirt" ground and cause dimming of lights in a house.  I can't get my mind around that???

 

Gary
 
> From: km1h at jeremy.mv.com
> To: n7fcf at hctc.com; amps at contesting.com
> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 10:09:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
> 
> In NH the homeowner can do all his own wiring subject to inspection; this 
> includes new construction. When I moved here in 1989 I added a huge addition 
> to an 1830's farmhouse which I pretty much gutted and rebuilt with 
> insulation, low E double pane windows, etc. The basement of the addition was 
> over wired for multi bench ham use plus other benches for building amps, and 
> repairs.
> 
> The complete house was wired with #12 to the 120V wall outlets which are 
> standard 15A variety. I did that to minimize dimming which is common on this 
> hilltop due to poor grounds.....rock makes a poor conductor. The ground 
> rods are a pair of spaced 8' driven at a shallow angle since solid ledge is 
> less than 2' down. The best I could do is place them under the roof drip 
> zone.
> 
> My guide was the 1987 NEC manual which was current at the time.
> 
> The inspector is a local excavator contractor who never had an electricians 
> license. In fact he still holds the position. I think we just broke 13K in 
> population.
> 
> Later I bonded all the heating and domestic water copper pipes together with 
> #6 and tied those into the panel ground. Distances were all within 6' of the 
> panel.
> 
> Then of course comes the ham equipment grounds, feedline grounds (all CATV 
> or Andrew hardline), tower grounds ( I have 4 up to 250' away all guyed 
> which means 3 more grounds per tower), vertical radial grounds (80 & 160M 4 
> Squares), Beverage grounds ( there are 7 and the common hardline feed is 
> 750' away) and whatever else which seems to throw the NEC manual out the 
> window.
> 
> You can see why many of us are confused and pretty much ignore all the NEC 
> nonsense after the 1987 or earlier revisions.
> 
> Carl
> KM1H
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim Carr" <n7fcf at hctc.com>
> To: "Alex Eban" <alexeban at gmail.com>; <jimsmitheguard-a at yahoo.com>; 
> <amps at contesting.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 3:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
> 
> 
> >I spent my working life wireing and the later half as a state electrical
> > inspector. I am a certified master electrician and national;y certified
> > electrical inspector retired since 2000.
> > reading some of these post's, although there isn't a thing wrong with 
> > doing
> > your own wiring, I would heartily recomend you have your work inspected by
> > the local electrical inspector. When it comes to bonding and grounding, 
> > what
> > you don't know can kill you.
> > Jim
> > N7FCF
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Alex Eban" <alexeban at gmail.com>
> > To: <jimsmitheguard-a at yahoo.com>; <amps at contesting.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 11:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
> >
> >
> > This is true!
> > The point to watch, in my opinion, is to take the branch out from the main
> > panel BEFORE the GFI, if used. A local GFI can then be added at the remote
> > location and the local ground strapped there to the neutral coming from 
> > the
> > main inlet. An added advantage of this is that if the local GFI trips you
> > don't have to run to the house to lift it.
> > Alex 4Z5KS
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: amps-bounces at contesting.com [mailto:amps-bounces at contesting.com] On
> > Behalf Of jimsmitheguard-a at yahoo.com
> > Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 5:10 AM
> > To: amps at contesting.com
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
> >
> > Mark,
> > The neutral and ground must be bonded together at the main panel as stated
> > on the reflector many times. The ground, and neutral bus are often one in
> > the same in a residential panel.
> >
> > The detached barn requires it's own service. This service must have it's 
> > own
> > grounding electrodes to limit the impedance to ground at this location, 
> > and
> > the neutral must be bonded to ground here.
> >
> > If the barn service panel is fed from the house service panel, You must 
> > also
> > bond the services together.
> >
> > Jim Smith, EEKQ6UV
> >
> > --- On Tue, 11/3/09, Mark Robinson <markrob at mindspring.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > From: Mark Robinson <markrob at mindspring.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Amps] TL922 Power Plugs
> > To: "Ian Hill - K8MM" <ihk8mm at charter.net>
> > Cc: amps at contesting.com
> > Date: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 8:32 AM
> >
> >
> > My Neutral and Ground is connected at the main panel but also at the barn
> > 300 feet away. I am running a 3 wire 100 amp 240v power 4 00 aluminum line
> > to the barn from a 100 amp 240v breaker located in my main distribution 
> > box.
> >
> > I didn't like the idea of a gnd neutral tie that far away from the barn, 
> > so
> > I tied them together at the barn with a second ground rod located at the
> > barn. Is that such a bad idea?
> >
> > Mark
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