[TowerTalk] Fwd: BOUNCE towertalk@contesting.com: Admin request of type /\buns\w*b/i ...

[k6ll@juno.com]

On Mon, 2 Feb 1998 23:06:18 EST UpTheTower@aol.com writes:
>Well, it wasn't the loading coils, but the balun, a W2DU current
>balun.  It was reading a very high NEGATIVE resistance on my Fluke 77
>(can anybody tell me why it was NEGATIVE?), so I figured it was
>history, and took a hacksaw to it.  When I cut the top off, a whole
>lot of BROWN WATER came out.  Upon inspection, I could find absolutely
>no way for water to get either in or out of the balun, save for the
>center pin on the UHF connector.  The failure was the wire had
>corroded and was nearly broken off on the center conductor connection
>to the solder lug on the inside of the balun tube.
>
>So, can anybody recommend a good current balun to use with the 402CD,
>or is one even needed?  Why can't I just follow the directions in the
>manual and make a coil of coax?
>
>I have NEVER used a balun of any type here before this W2DU, and I'm
>batting 0 for 1.  Advice appreciated.  I'd like to put the thing back
>up next weekend.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>73 - Dave N3RD
>n3rd@ix.netcom.com

I'll bet the negative resistance was caused by the water inside
acting as an electrolyte and creating a small battery that
opposed the battery voltage in your meter. I have a 40-2cd and
started out with the recommended coil of coax. The damn coil kept
coming unravelled though and hanging down, so I replaced it
with an AZTECH balun (K6NA mfr). It works fine, but don't see
any difference from the coil of coax. The AZTECH handles 1500w
just fine, even on 18 mhz, where the swr is about 1.9.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ
K6LL@juno.com


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