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Re: [Amps] soldering vs crimping

To: Dick Green WC1M <wc1m73@gmail.com>, "donroden@hiwaay.net" <donroden@hiwaay.net>, "amps@contesting.com" <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] soldering vs crimping
From: Glen Zook <gzook@yahoo.com>
Reply-to: Glen Zook <gzook@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 12:43:29 -0700 (PDT)
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
I have found an easier way of soldering those pins.  What I do is to place the 
pin in a hole drilled in a piece of wood that just holds the pin upright. 
 Next, I tin the center conductor of the coax.  The next step is to heat the 
pin with the soldering iron and flow just a little solder in the open end of 
the pin.  Then insert the tinned center conductor into the pin while applying 
heat to the pin from the soldering iron.  If the center conductor is cut to the 
proper length then the insulation will just come in contact the the end of the 
pin.

In those cases where the solder flows out of the hole I just use a small file 
to remove it.  If the tinned center conductor is too large to fit in the hole 
in the pin, just use a small file to reduce it.

After trying all sorts of ways to solder the pin I have standardized on the 
above method and it works very well every time with a minimum of effort.
 
Glen, K9STH


Website:  http://k9sth.com


________________________________
 From: Dick Green WC1M <wc1m73@gmail.com>

Right, and I'm not sure there's a better alternative to using the hole. The
only other way to solder the center pin is to leave a small space between
the opening of the pin and the dielectric, heat the pin, then apply solder
along the ridge of the pin opening so that the solder is drawn into the pin
(not unlike sweating pipe joint.) But I checked the drawing from one
manufacturer, RF Connectors, and they specify that the pin must be butted up
against the dielectric. If you do that, there's no way to get solder into
the pin other than through the hole.
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