Get a small tube of dielectric grease from any auto parts store, and squirt
some onto the pins of the connector...helps them come apart and prevents
corrosion to boot.
Chris
KF7P
On May 19, 2014, at 16:59 , Mike wrote:
Whether you use 4, 6 or 8 pin trailer hitch type connectors, make sure you
are able to engage and more importantly, disconnect the mated connectors
with your hand. I've used the 4, 6 and 8 pin trailer hitch connectors sold
at auto parts store and found I had to use a screw driver to separate the
connectors when fully mated. A PITA when on top of the tower, etc.
73,
Mike, K4GMH
On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Tom_N2SR via TowerTalk <
towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:
> The Wireman has what you are looking for. 8 pole molded male and female
> disconnect.
>
>
> https://www.thewireman.com/prodpix6.html
>
> I do not own The Wireman, nor do I work for them, therefore I have no
> interest. Just passing on information.
>
>
> Tom, N2SR
>
>
>
> On Monday, May 19, 2014 11:01 AM, Patrick Greenlee <
> patrick_g@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> Matt, That is certainly a good pro way to handle the problem (older
> persons substitute word for "issue.") I am doing essentially the same
> thing at the terminal strip, exiting that terminal strip area with a
> made up cable (separate insulated wires with a couple layers of shrink
> over them and plenty of silicon rubber (RTV) inside over the terminal
> strip. Nicee and weather proof. Where you went with a J-box and
> internal terminal strip, I wnet with a pair of 4 pin polarized "flat 4"
> trailer connectors.; With a few wraps of tape and some RTV and you are
> weatherproof. Coax seal is even easier to put on and take off and would
> work good.as well.
>
> Comparing the two approaches is like arguing whether it is 50 cents or a
> half dollar. With a note paper inside the J-box as a reminder of what
> color wire goes to which number terminal (unless of course the other
> cable is same colors) and you are in business. About the only advantage
> I could claim is a little cost and the ability to connect and disconnect
> in the dark without needing a third or fourth hand and a light. I do
> not intend to be plugging and unplugging in the dark and the savings
> won't buy much these days.
>
> 73,
>
> Patrick NJ5G
> On 5/18/2014 10:53 PM, Matt wrote:
>> Hi Patrick,
>>
>> Just another take on the chronic problem with the older terminal block
>> design that you mention... My solution was to replace the terminal
> strip
>> with a blank-off plate through which I passed a short whip that extends
> the
>> rotor wiring out to a weatherproof external J-box which houses the
> terminal
>> strip. I use small compression nuts that are similar to seal-tight
>> connectors at the blank-off plate and the J-box. J box is mounted to
> one
>> of the tower legs which also makes accessing the terminal strip a lot
>> easier.
>>
>> Matt
>> KM5VI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I was looking for connectors to add to older HY-Gain rotors using 8
> wires.
>> My new production unit came with connectors but the older units use an 8
>> position terminal strip that is not so wonderfully weather proofed. So
> you
>> get your unit refurbed or it is still working fine but still has the old
>> terminal strip... not satisfactory...
>>
>> So I'm searching Mouser, Digi Key etc and then... and then... the little
>> over my head light came on, dimly but noticeably illuminated.
>> Flat 4 pin trailer connectors for hooking up the lights on a trailer to
> be
>> towed. Need 8 pins. Connector has 4 pins. One side is 3 males and a
> female
>> and the mating connector is 3 female pins and a male. Take one of each
> male
>> and female and using the supplied pigtails put on ring terminals and
> install
>> the pair of flat connectors to the terminal strip. Flood the terminal
> strip
>> with Silicon rubber (RTV) or your favorite weather proofer and put on the
>> cover. Another pair of connectors terminates your cable run at the
> rotator
>> end.
>>
>> This gives you polarized connector action. You can't plug the cable run
> from
>> the controller into the wrong connectors at the rotator. The trailer type
>> flat 4 pin connectors are made to be exposed to the elements in their
> normal
>> application. I like belt and suspender type weather proofing so... Wrap
>> the connectors with tape or coax seal or whatever you prefer to boost the
>> weather resistance if you are worried that these inexpensive connectors
>> could do a good job. Electrical tape and a little RTV does a marvelous
> job
>> and is easy enough to remove if the need arises.
>>
>> I kinow, I know, no material certs, no mil-spec, NIH, too inexpensive to
> be
>> good etc etc...
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Patrick NJ5G
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