I used my hydraulic log splitter to bend all the rebar for my 165ft Rohn 55g
base and anchor blocks to Rohn spec. I made two "shoes" for each end of the
splitter to protect the splitter ends. Worked like a charm! Very little elbow
grease spilled!
73
NJ0F
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:06 AM, Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
> wrote:
>
> Harbor Freight (Northern Tool too, I think) sells hydraulic pipe benders that
> come with interchangeable "jaws? mandrels?" of different sizes. These
> aren't all that expensive and do a great job. They have a built in rollers
> and a hydraulic jack that you manually pump to get the bending. Easy to
> pump. Goes slow enough that there is no worry about going too far too fast,
> Easy to get the desired radius of curvature. You can single handed bend a
> circle with a 20 ft length of rebar or make a much tighter bend if desired.
> I have had mine for over 20 years.
>
> Patrick NJ5G
>
>
>> On 10/20/2015 11:05 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
>> My opinion:
>> Typically the rebar only adds strength to the concrete base. IOW, You don't
>> need as large a base, or as strong a mix when rebar is used. If you were
>> "positive" the base could maintain structural integrity under any conditions
>> you wouldn't need rebar.
>>
>> Regardless of whether welded or tied, The rebar normally doesn't need a
>> rigid connections. The ties only keep the rebar in place during the pour.
>>
>> If you don't need precision and are not making sharp bends in big stuff you
>> might be able to do the bending with a manual conduit bender. Welding just
>> makes building a rugged cage that can stand rough handling easier. Just be
>> sure to use rebar made for welding. Welds on the normal stuff are quite
>> fragile.
>>
>> Bending rod, rerod, pipe, etc...into a circle is usually done with three
>> rollers. The rollers (Which usually have a radius cut into them to keep
>> the rod centered) are mounted in a triangular shape with the bottom of the
>> center one slightly below the tops of the outside rollers (The height of
>> this roller is adjustable). To bend much of anything, these things can be
>> pretty hefty. The distance between the rollers is surprisingly short.
>> Having them close reduces, or eliminates waste.
>>
>> There is a bit of a learning curve, but it's neither steep nor long. A rough
>> explanation: The center roller is raised so the rod can be inserted over
>> the outside rollers and under the center roller. Then the center roller is
>> lowered and tension applied. The first pass produces a shallow arc. The
>> center roller is lowered for each successive pass which tightens the arc
>> eventually into a circle
>>
>> I've seen the rollers mounted into the top of a steel bench with a movable
>> center wheel. The rollers are powered and a center screw, or hydraulic ram
>> powers the movement of the center roller. With those you have to be aware
>> of the thd of tht piece coming back, or you could skewer yourself.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Roger (K8RI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 10/20/2015 11:29 AM, StellarCAT wrote:
>>> Rohn says to use 8 #7 rebar (SERIOUSLY! 7/8”!!) ... and then it shows ‘#4
>>> circular ties 2 1/2” OC with 2” cover with 24” laps’
>>>
>>> huh?
>>>
>>> I’ve always just dug a hole – usually around 3 x 3 x 3 ... put the tower
>>> section in (with temp guys) ... put in a few pieces of 1/2” re bar and been
>>> done with it .... but now I have to follow the Rohn specifications which
>>> seem onerous at best (I know, I know – guys that say “follow it to the
>>> letter”) ... and I’ve no clue what #4 circular tie is. SURELY its not #4
>>> rebar BENT in a circle!?
>>>
>>> Googling so far hasn’t shown me anything that helps.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> K9RX
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
>
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