Part 2 of W9EHQ's video shows his method of installing PL-259 connectors
onto smaller cables that require a reducer (e.g., UG-175). For the last
several years, I've been using a similar technique developed by K6MHE:
http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF
Apart from installation simplicity, K6MHE's procedure allows for 100% QC
inspection prior to inserting the reducer into the PL-259 body. This is
similar to what W9EHQ shows, except the braid is trimmed such that it's
flared only to the top reducer surface, making it very easy to rotate the
PL-259 body onto the reducer without friction.
The method approved by Amphenol and shown in the ARRL Handbook for a
half-century leaves little room for inspecting the work - in fact, we're
blindly hoping for a good friction fit of the braid between the reducer and
the body. It's a sloppy installation procedure that leaves a mechanically
unsecure connection -- even when "done right."
Not everyone agrees with the use of the K6MHE method:
http://hamwaves.com/connectors/doc/m.plug.reducer.rg-58.rg-59.pdf
I do think the above concern is overblown. We have complete control over
the heating and soldering of the braid on the reducer. When silver-plated
reducers are used (or using pre-tinned nickel reducers), very little heat
time is required when soldering the braid onto the reducer. When I'm
assembling PL-259 connectors with reducers, I place the cable vertically in
a vise. The reducer is slipped over the cable and drops onto the top of the
vise jaws. The cable can then be adjusted in the vise to precisely place
the reducer at the braid level. This leaves both hands free to make an
accurate braid connection. At the conclusion, the body screws onto the
reducer without binding.
Paul, W9AC
-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Roger
(K8RI) on TT
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2016 12:22 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Connectors Part 2
When soldering PL259s, I cut the jacket the required distance back. I then
slid the jacket to be removed forward, but not completely off the braid.
This kept the braid flat against the dielectric. Once that braid was tinned
with minimal solder I slid the jacket off. I trimmed the braid back a
little from the end of the dielectric, or about to the end of where it was
tinned if I did it right. Minimal tinning means you don't need to file the
solder down and being tight to the dielectric keeps the impedance correct to
that point. It also minimizes heat damage to the dielectric. If all went
well to this point, the connector should screw over the jacket. with just
enough braid exposed in the holes that it can be soldered to the connector.
I prefer a small, but relatively hot tip to make the solder joint quickly.
I have not seen a foam dielectric that was not easily damaged by too much
heat. CNT-240, RG-8X, LMR 400 & 600, BuryFlex. 9913F, etc.
The trick is to get the barrel hot enough to melt the solder around the
hole, but not hot enough all over to damage the dielectric.
With only one working hand I can no longer do this, but I had gone to crimp
connectors prior to losing the use of my left hand. It is getting back to
where I can hold the solder between my thumb and forefinger with my left
hand, if I can rest the hand on something solid.
I still much prefer the crimp type and as industry has gone to crimp, I have
trouble understanding why so many hams continue to use the solder type.
A good, properly adjusted stripper and crimp connectors produce consistent
and strong connections much quicker than soldering and require far less
skill. Yes, there is a learning curve, but it's neither steep nor long.
73
Roger (K8RI)
. i On 5/11/2016 Wednesday 10:23 PM, Bob K6UJ wrote:
> Tim,
>
> I tried this method and and after a couple of tries I think I have
> mastered it.
> Please bear with me, hihi.
> I trimmed the braid slightly over 1/8" away from the end of the
> connector shell and then fanned out
> and folded the braid back over the end of the shell. Then soldered
> the braid to the end of the
> connector shell. The soldering only takes up 1/8" at the end of the
> connector. My first attempts
> had the soldering to the braid too far up on the connector and I
> couldn't unscrew the connector barrel enough.
> That's why I am now using the 1/8" trim.
> The pictures of the last steps showing the soldering of the braid to
> the shell could be clearer. :-)
> I use shrink tubing and slide it over the soldered joint just enough
> to insure I can unscrew the connector barrel
> and it looks great. I like this process, no over heating the
> dielectric as you said, no question about a good
> soldered connection to the shell, and super strong.
> I have a hunch that others that may have tried it didn't like the look
> of the finished result. Yes the soldered
> joint to the shell is there for god and everyone to see :-) but if the
> shield strands are trimmed equally before
> soldering and then the connector and coax junction is either taped or
> shrink tube is used (one of which is a good
> idea to do) then it is a great PL-259 connection and looks pretty too
> hihi.
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K6UJ
>
>
>
> On 5/11/16 6:27 PM, Tim Duffy wrote:
>> Hello Jim:
>>
>> As you reported - W3LPL and K3LR (and many others) are using this method
>> with the Amphenol 83-1SP of soldering the shield on the back of the
>> connector. It works great.
>>
>> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
>>
>>
>> No melted dielectric and very visible great soldered connection of the
>> shield. No failures here at the K3LR multi multi station in over 30
>> years -
>> and the contest station success efforts - show good results.
>>
>> Hope to see you in Dayton
>>
>> 73
>> Tim K3LR
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf
>> Of Jim
>> Brown
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 8:05 PM
>> To: towertalk@contesting.com
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL259 Connectors Part 2
>>
>> On Tue,5/10/2016 4:48 PM, Kevin Stover wrote:
>>> I tried to pull one off a waste piece of coax. Connector clamped in my
>>> bench vise and two guys pulling on the coax.
>>> Didn't budge. Try that with the soldered connector.
>> A properly installed soldered Amphenol 83-1SP makes a pretty strong
>> connection to the coax. "Properly installed" includes stripping just
>> enough braid so that it shows through the solder holes and so that the
>> coax jacket screws into the connector shell, soldering the braid at each
>> hole so that it flows well, and doing a good soldering job on the center
>> conductor. Many times, I've had to yank pretty hard on the RG11 attached
>> to high dipoles to guide them away from tree limbs, etc. So far, I've
>> never had one pull apart.
>>
>> K3LR has developed a method of soldering the braid to the OUTSIDE of the
>> connector shell and covering it with heat shrink. That's probably even
>> stronger! I've done that with a few connectors, but wasn't thrilled
>> with the result. QST published it a few years ago, and I think it's
>> somewhere on the internet.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> TowerTalk mailing list
>> TowerTalk@contesting.com
>> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
|