Not much to contribute as far as crimped rotator connectors and also hope we
don't launch into the
crimp vs solder debate. I am old school and only solder all electrical
connectors and all coax connectors.
The only failures I have had are from the space between the headphones hihi.
Like forgetting to solder the
center conductor on PL-259's
73
Bob
K6UJ
> On Nov 17, 2021, at 4:43 PM, <john@kk9a.com> <john@kk9a.com> wrote:
>
> I hate to bring up the crimp and solder debate but I crimp and solder my
> rotator terminal lugs with regular tin/lead solder. Your rotator probably
> has crimped and soldered terminals already on it. If you're connecting
> directly to a K7NV prop pitch it would be difficult to enclose the terminals
> however you could coat them with liquid tape, Scotchkote, etc.
>
> John KK9A
>
>
>
> Paul Christensen w9ac wrote:
>
> I'm looking for input from others concerning best practices for crimping
> lugs onto solid copper wire that's exposed to the outside elements. Here's
> why:
>
>
>
> A few months ago, N4CC and I lost rotational control on one of our prop
> pitch rotators. Our rotators are wired with #10 AWG copper Romex. At the
> rotator, high-quality T&B copper ring lugs are crimped on the ends of the
> Romex. A high-compression crimper is used on all connections. Those
> connections are absolutely solid.
>
>
>
> Last week, we systematically tested the Romex at various points between our
> comm shelter and the rotator. Each Romex wire between the tower base and
> the rotator measured an infinite open at the base on a Fluke DMM when
> shorted at the top. It seemed impossible that #10 Romex could just fail
> open on its own. Our first guess was that a hunter used the tower for
> target practice and severed the Romex.
>
>
>
> After installing a new section of Romex, we removed the old section, took it
> back to the shop and started looking for breaks. None found. Finally, I
> measured resistance between the lug's ring and the dug the other probe into
> the wire. It still measured an infinite open. That means all conductivity
> was lost between the lug barrel and the #10 wire. All three lugs measure
> this way. The lugs were crimped about six years ago and have been exposed
> to the weather. Still, I didn't expect a well-crimped copper lug to lose
> all conduction properties. The copper wire shows signs of black copper
> oxide which I believe is non-conductive. And apart from creating a
> weather-proof box for the rotator connections, I'm looking for a long-term
> solution. Frankly, I'm not keen about installing a small enclosure at the
> tower's top to protect the crimp, although it would certainly slow the rate
> of oxidation. So that brings me to best practices. Some possibilities:
>
>
>
> 1. Apply copper grease into the lug barrel before the crimp occurs; or
> 2. Solder the lug after crimping, using 2% silver bearing solder
>
>
>
> Comments?
>
>
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
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>
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>
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