I have had this amp since the 1980's and never had trouble with the TR relay
(well, other than it is slower than molasses). It was untouched in the mods
I did.
But I did check continuity of the relay contacts. The TR relay does switch
over.
I think, as Roger also suggested, perhaps the problem is in the bias
circuit. It too
is affected by the TR relay. I did not directly change the bias circuit but
it was
affected in the sense that the filament RFC was changed and it is related to
the
bias circuit (a 47K resistor and 50W zener). The RFC was connected to a
terminal
strip which I moved about an inch to fit the new RFC in and it looks OK and
some
continuity checks seemed OK but I am going to do some additional checks to
make
sure I didn't mess up something. The RFC and terminal strip are in the
middle of the
amp and the relay, resistor, and zener are on the back panel of the amp.
73, Larry W6NWS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Pease" <dpease@adams.net>
To: <amps@contesting.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Amps] Clipperton L suggestion
> Larry, did you confirm continuity across the T/R relay contacts? When I
> had
> a Clipperton, that was an ongoing issue.
>
>
>
> NG9R
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2010 23:34:20 -0400
> From: "Larry" <lknain@nc.rr.com>
> Subject: [Amps] Suggestions - I broke my amp
> To: "Amps" <amps@contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <6DE29DB55E8740479687855C81AF7535@LarryKnainPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I am looking for suggestions regarding my Clipperton-L. The basic problem
> is
> that there is
> no output. No apparent plate current.
>
> I did several things:
>
> 1. I replaced the power supply board which seems to be working as the
> meter
> shows about
> 2500V (I don't have an HV probe to confirm independently that there is
> 2500V).
> 2. I had to fix the parasitic suppressors so I put in an AL572 RFC and
> suppressor board and
> increased the bypass cap to 0.001.
> 3. I changed the plate blocking cap to 2000pf (from 500pf) and changed a
> couple of doorknobs
> for 160. The no output has been checked only on 20 and 15 so far.
> 4. I changed the filament RFC to an RF Parts RFCFIL30.
>
> Some other facts:
>
> 1. The filaments are lit.
> 2. The meter shows what I recall as roughly the correct plate voltage.
> 3. Using an ohmmeter there is continuity from the PS HV pad to the plate
> connectors.
> 4. There is no plate current that I can see. Although, I once saw the
> plate
> current go to about
> 350mA and still no output.
> 5. Several years ago I added a tuned input board and there is continuity
> from the LVDC pad to
> input board and the bandswitch (unchanged in current mod but changed with
> the input board)
> still works correctly.
> 6. There is continuity from the plate to plate blocking capacitor and
> continuity from the "other"
> side of the plate blocking capacitor to the plate tuning capacitor.
> 7. I rechecked the connections and still think everything is correct.
> 8. No arcs, blown fuses, etc.
>
> I have obviously overlooked something. Suggestions?
>
> 73, Larry W6NWS
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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