You're right, Rich -- bad wording... My point was only that even at 1.5-2kW,
the PL-259s or coax
they're soldered to would be first to go.
I'll stick with my bead balun -- it fixed all the RF problems I was having, so
unless it bursts
into flames, I'll keep it!!
And there was a group of us talking about this very subject the other day. How
would one
determine how much power could be run through a bead balun if I were to build
my own? (Assuming
enough ferrite to cover about 12 inches of RG-400).
Thanks,
Joe,
N3JI
--- "R.Measures" <r@somis.org> wrote:
>
> > Even say RG-400 or RG-303 would give up before they get saturated,
> > right?
>
> Hello, Joe -- Coax doesn't saturate, it melts and/or ignites. Cores
> saturate.
>
> > Just curious --
> > even if I ran my 3K-A at full bore, it wouldn't kill 'em (given that
> > the dipole is at it's
> > resonant point).
>
> A 3K-A will do about 2-out. This should not be a problem for small
> coax using SSB, especially because the choke balun is at the center of
> the dipole - so it gets cooled by the breeze. I make the choke balun
> for a dipole out of the same coax used in the feedline because there
> are no coax splices or connectors out in the weather and because the
> balun would definitely be as capable as the feedline. Sure, an
> ugly-balun won't win any beauty contests, but it Will do the job. //
> The main weakness of an outdoor coax choke balun is that UV from the
> sun deteriorates the nylon cable ties that are used to hold the coax to
> the ABS sewer pipe. A solution is to cover the nylon cable ties with
> black electrical tape.
> end
> >
> > Joe
> >
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