You can spend anywhere from $5 to $500 on a straight key. For $20 to
$30 you can find a WWII vintage J-38 or a new Nye Speed-X, either of
which work as well as any key you can come up with. A straight key is a
very simple device - just a lever you push down, a spring to return it
to home position, a set of contacts and screws to adjust tension and
contact spacing. There's no real advantage to spending big bucks for
such a device. If you really take a liking to CW you will want to go on
to a nice paddle and keyer as your speed increases- or you may find CW
isn't your cup of tea. In either case, why spend big bucks for a device
you seldom if ever use?
I still think learning CW on a straight key is a good idea. At slow
speeds I think it's easier to send with a straight key. I learned CW by
sending text from a magazine like QST on a straight key connected to a
code practice oscillator. I thought that was more fun than just
listening to tapes or records and I found the code came quicker to me by
doing that. I felt like more of a participant in the learning process.
Once I had my novice license and got on the bands, the daily use of CW
quickly increased my speed and I built my first keyer and made a home
brew paddle from back-to-back J-38's. Of course, your mileage may vary
as they say in the car industry! It's sad that the novice license has
fallen out of favor and is on the road to extintion, but then that's
another story.
I've been sending CW since 1960 and use straight keys, bugs and paddles.
I have a collection of about 100 keys of all sorts. I've used most
every type straight key there is. Big dollars for glitzy chrome or
polished wood or pretty paint doesn't really seem to bring improved
performance. The straight key was perfected and patented in the late
1800's by Jesse Bunnell with his steel lever Triumph key. That same
design is used in the simple keys I mentioned above. These keys mounted
on a good sturdy base will do the job quite nicely.
73,
Puck, W4PM .
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