Just out of curiosity, what's the opinion on those rubber booties soled by
Cushcraft? Couldn't they be used instead of the inner layer of electrical
tape? For example, put the bootie over the connector, wrap the joint with
butyl rubber vapor wrap, then wrap with two layers of electrical tape. Any
comments (I have a bunch of those things on hand and wonder whether I should
use them or sell them)?
73, Dick, WC1M
-----Original Message-----
From: K7LXC@aol.com <K7LXC@aol.com>
To: John_Skapiak@inficon.com <John_Skapiak@inficon.com>;
towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] Re: Waterproofing Connections
>In a message dated 97-09-15 18:04:52 EDT, you write:
>
>> Some time ago you described on the tower talk reflector how to waterproof
>> antenna connections (coax connectors, antenna terminal connections,
etc.).
>> I've tried to find it in the archives, but I can't seem to locate it.
> Can
>> you tell me what month it was or can you e-mail me the information?
>
>Hi, John --
>
> Since this is a general interest question, I'll post it to TowerTalk.
>
> First of all, throw all your cheap electrical tape away. Well, at
least
>don't use it for coax joints. Use only Scotch 33+ or Super 88 (same tape -
>88 is thicker).
>
> Next, finger tight isn't good enough. Use a pair of pliers (or 2 pair
>for a barrel connector joint) to get the connection good and tight.
>
> At this point, DO NOT APPLY COAX-SEAL to the connector. In fact, don't
>apply it to anything. There is a better material that is used by commercial
>antenna installers; it's a butyl rubber vapor wrap material. Commercial
guys
>don't use Coax-Seal and you shouldn't either. The problem is that once you
>put that stuff on a connector - you'll never get it off! You have to cut
the
>connector off and throw it away. TOWER TECH has db products vapor wrap for
>three bucks for a 3"x12" piece (enough for 2-4 joints).
>
> The vapor wrap can be applied to directly to the connector and
removed
>easily with a razor knife. Some people (including me) prefer to have a wrap
>of tape over the connector before applying the vapor wrap.
>
> Next you apply 2 layers of tape over the vapor wrap. If the coax is in
>any sort of vertical plane, apply the last wrap in an UPWARD direction.
That
>way, it's like the shingles on your house and the water runs off. Put in on
>the other way and the water runs in.
>
> When tearing the tape,make a nice clean tear. Cutting it with side
>cutters or razor knife is fine but using your fingernails doesn't do too
bad
>of a job unless you're a fingernail chewer. Now let the end of the tape
relax
>before sticking it down. Do not apply the end under pressure or it will
>"flag" (and we all know what that means).
>
> The optional final step is to coat the electrical tape with Scotchkote
or
>clear acrylic spray paint.
>
> Now you've got a longterm, bombproof joint.
>
>> By the way, I really like your MARC program. It definitely takes the
>guess
>> work out of trying to figure out if your mast is strong enough for your
>> antenna system.
>>
> Thanks for the kind words. For anyone interested, it's a Mast, Antenna
>and Rotator Calculator and makes mast and rotator selection pretty easy.
It's
>$9.95 from TOWER TECH.
>
>73 and GL with your antenna project, Steve K7LXC
>
> TOWER TECH -- professional tower supplies for amateurs
>
>--
>FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
>Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
>Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
>Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>Search: http://www.contesting.com/km9p/search
>
--
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
Submissions: towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
Search: http://www.contesting.com/km9p/search
|