TexasRF@aol.com wrote:
> Rick has the answer. Fishing the center conductor through the opening in
> the shield is easier if you provide a few inches of extra length and push the
> shield up the coax so it increases diameter a bit.
>
> The crimp terminals are ok but I personally would solder them to the coax
> after crimping for long term reliability. If you use ring terminals, they
> can be bent with long nose pliers to fit around the open wire conductors and
> then soldered to the open wire conductors.
>
If going that far, why not just use the butt splices? Crimp and/or solder.
73
Roger (K8RI)
>
> 73,
> Gerald K5GW
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/21/2009 4:33:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> richard@karlquist.com writes:
>
> W1JCW wrote:
>
>> Hi guys -
>>
>> What is your preferred way to solder an open wire feeder on say RG8 or
>> RG213 ?
>>
>> I know some cut the brand down the middle, solder it at the base and
>>
> work
>
>> their way to the tip.
>> Some twist it then solder or flatting it.
>>
>> I am looking to try something new.
>>
>> Suggestions ?
>>
>> 73-
>> W1JCW
>> John
>>
>
>
> To answer the original question about lead dress on the coax:
>
> "Something new" (to you) is to use tweezers to displace the braid
> near the "base" (ie away from the end) such that a hole is formed
> in the braid. This is done without cutting. Then, needlenose
> pliers are used to grab the dielectric and yank it through the
> hole. Sounds tricky, but I've done it dozens of times. For smaller
> coax (up to RG58) they have a tool called a "lead extractor" that
> makes this easier. See:
>
> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=723
>
> This tool is too small for RG8, but gives you the idea of what you
> want to do by hand.
>
> The other thing to do is install crimp terminals on the braid
> and center conductor so that you are not soldering to the coax.
>
> Rick N6RK
>
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