Whether you use 4, 6 or 8 pin trailer hitch type connectors, make sure you
are able to engage and more importantly, disconnect the mated connectors
with your hand. I've used the 4, 6 and 8 pin trailer hitch connectors sold
at auto parts store and found I had to use a screw driver to separate the
connectors when fully mated. A PITA when on top of the tower, etc.
73,
Mike, K4GMH
On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Tom_N2SR via TowerTalk <
towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:
> The Wireman has what you are looking for. 8 pole molded male and female
> disconnect.
>
>
> https://www.thewireman.com/prodpix6.html
>
> I do not own The Wireman, nor do I work for them, therefore I have no
> interest. Just passing on information.
>
>
> Tom, N2SR
>
>
>
> On Monday, May 19, 2014 11:01 AM, Patrick Greenlee <
> patrick_g@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> Matt, That is certainly a good pro way to handle the problem (older
> persons substitute word for "issue.") I am doing essentially the same
> thing at the terminal strip, exiting that terminal strip area with a
> made up cable (separate insulated wires with a couple layers of shrink
> over them and plenty of silicon rubber (RTV) inside over the terminal
> strip. Nicee and weather proof. Where you went with a J-box and
> internal terminal strip, I wnet with a pair of 4 pin polarized "flat 4"
> trailer connectors.; With a few wraps of tape and some RTV and you are
> weatherproof. Coax seal is even easier to put on and take off and would
> work good.as well.
>
> Comparing the two approaches is like arguing whether it is 50 cents or a
> half dollar. With a note paper inside the J-box as a reminder of what
> color wire goes to which number terminal (unless of course the other
> cable is same colors) and you are in business. About the only advantage
> I could claim is a little cost and the ability to connect and disconnect
> in the dark without needing a third or fourth hand and a light. I do
> not intend to be plugging and unplugging in the dark and the savings
> won't buy much these days.
>
> 73,
>
> Patrick NJ5G
> On 5/18/2014 10:53 PM, Matt wrote:
> > Hi Patrick,
> >
> > Just another take on the chronic problem with the older terminal block
> > design that you mention... My solution was to replace the terminal
> strip
> > with a blank-off plate through which I passed a short whip that extends
> the
> > rotor wiring out to a weatherproof external J-box which houses the
> terminal
> > strip. I use small compression nuts that are similar to seal-tight
> > connectors at the blank-off plate and the J-box. J box is mounted to
> one
> > of the tower legs which also makes accessing the terminal strip a lot
> > easier.
> >
> > Matt
> > KM5VI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I was looking for connectors to add to older HY-Gain rotors using 8
> wires.
> > My new production unit came with connectors but the older units use an 8
> > position terminal strip that is not so wonderfully weather proofed. So
> you
> > get your unit refurbed or it is still working fine but still has the old
> > terminal strip... not satisfactory...
> >
> > So I'm searching Mouser, Digi Key etc and then... and then... the little
> > over my head light came on, dimly but noticeably illuminated.
> > Flat 4 pin trailer connectors for hooking up the lights on a trailer to
> be
> > towed. Need 8 pins. Connector has 4 pins. One side is 3 males and a
> female
> > and the mating connector is 3 female pins and a male. Take one of each
> male
> > and female and using the supplied pigtails put on ring terminals and
> install
> > the pair of flat connectors to the terminal strip. Flood the terminal
> strip
> > with Silicon rubber (RTV) or your favorite weather proofer and put on the
> > cover. Another pair of connectors terminates your cable run at the
> rotator
> > end.
> >
> > This gives you polarized connector action. You can't plug the cable run
> from
> > the controller into the wrong connectors at the rotator. The trailer type
> > flat 4 pin connectors are made to be exposed to the elements in their
> normal
> > application. I like belt and suspender type weather proofing so... Wrap
> > the connectors with tape or coax seal or whatever you prefer to boost the
> > weather resistance if you are worried that these inexpensive connectors
> > could do a good job. Electrical tape and a little RTV does a marvelous
> job
> > and is easy enough to remove if the need arises.
> >
> > I kinow, I know, no material certs, no mil-spec, NIH, too inexpensive to
> be
> > good etc etc...
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Patrick NJ5G
> > _______________________________________________
> >
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