There are fairly deep cuts in the concrete, but the whole thing is full
of1/4" steel mesh.
The whole works needs to be resurfaced as it was poured on a 90 deg plus
day with not a cloud in sight. They used too much water to keep it from
setting up too soon. Even with keeping it wet, the whole surface was
spalling badly.
within a year. To resurface it is almost as expensive as redoing the
entire apron. I have several diamond blades for the saws along with a
heavy duty industrial, worm gear drive saw. Unfortunately, neither my
leg or back will permit working in a kneeling position for more than a
few minutes.
The point where the concrete abuts against the garage floor does need to
be cut with an expansion joint (foam or 2 part Silastic) expansion joint
inserted. Cutting a close as possible while maintaining a straight cut
will remove a strip about 3" wide. That would be doable and allow the
installation of a ground "ring" around the house. The electrical
ground and service entrance and the station SPG would still be on
opposite sides of the house.
If the leg and arm were useful, I'd rent a grinder and resurface the
apron with the liquid used to get a flat, lever surface. It would give
us a really nice surface on the apron that would need some sort of
additive to keep it from becoming too slippery. The cost would be
between $3,000 and $4,000 just for the apron. The big expansion joint
and extra 100' of bare #2, plus the extra ground rods and CadWelds with
labor would probably be another $1,000 or more. So that puts us at
roughly another $5,000 (give or take) to add a ground ring and fix the
apron.
"I think" I may start a cut across the front of the garage. It might
take me the entire summer to make the one cut, but it'd solve several
problems.It would also join the current ground system close to mid point
eith the distance from the 45G to the entrance ground about the same as
from the tower to the station SPG.. Then, I'm not sure the budget will
stand more than getting around the N end of the garage and to the
entrance. The rest of the ground ring and resurfacing might have to
wait. Just too many expensive projects going on at one time. including
the replacement of about 7 large N2 filled tripane windows. We recently
had to dig up the weep tile around half the house and reinforce the
basement walls as well as some major roof work (due to a poor job done
in the past) and replacing the 100' 45G with a major, crank up and tilt
over tower.
Good thing I quit flying and sold the airplane. <:-))
Still...this would have been a lot easier when I was still working <LOL>
but hind sight works so much better than foresight.
73
Roger (K8RI)
s
On 6/6/2015 7:33 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
Migration where the coax is laying on the ground is specific to
several types of coax where the materials for the center conductor and
outer (jacket, shield, and braid) have substantially different
coefficients of expansion, 9913 is one. I've never seen it in the LMR
series with Al inner and outer construction which OTOH is very poor
about migration in vertical runs. I've found LMR-600 to be very bad,
but single turn loops 16 to 18" in dia about every 50 feet or so,
seem to cure it.
I used all, 9913 and was an advocate of proper weather proofing, until
lightening blew off all the weatherproofing and less than 15 minutes
later /I had water running out of the 2-meter rig.
Back then I used coax seal, or the 3M equivalent covered with 88
tape. It not only removed all the weatherproofing, but the silver
plating as well, leaving the connectors looking like sand blasted
brass. Blowing dry air or N2 through it would have repaired it, but I
gave all, or almost all of it away.
73
Roger (K8RI)
On 6/5/2015 11:15 PM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
On 6/5/2015 8:00 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
My experience shows "to me" that those using N-type connectors on
vertical runs without problems are quite lucky.
Coax with type N connectors is quite capable of center pin
migration in or out just laying on the ground. About
20 years ago, I bought a bunch of 43 foot long 9913 cables
with type N's at a swap meet. They came coiled up and I
just threw them in storage. By now, every single one of
them has the center pins sticking out both ends like
pinocchio. The ones that I used early on that got
straightened out for a while, but then were rolled up
did better.
I had some 500 foot runs of coax laying out on the ground
and over time, the center conductor migrated.
Going forward, I use PL259's exclusively to avoid this problem.
Except on my 7/8 inch coax.
Rick N6RK
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
TowerTalk mailing list
TowerTalk@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
|