A auto junk yard guy once told me that rusted-on
nuts can be removed by heating the nut with a
torch. I would think a MAPP gas torch would work
for that.
Or...
Use a nut-cracker. If none is available in the size you
need, then a series of small holes could be drilled in
one or two *sides* of the nuts, then use a chisel to
finish cracking the nut into pieces. Those nut-cracking
techniques can also be used together...first the drilling
and then apply a nut cracking tool.
73,
Charlie, N0TT
On Mon, 07 Oct 2013 10:56:27 +0000 (GMT) kr2q@optimum.net writes:
> Hi...
>
> I am changing out the T-Bar base on my TX472.
>
> [You may recall, my old TX472 was bent at the base of the tower
> during H.Sandy. The replacement tower has arrived]
>
> I tried using my wrench to undo the 3 nuts (on 3 anchor bolts), but
> I wasn't able to budge them.
>
> Then I slid a six foot long, 2" OD mast over the end of the wrench
> and for two of them (barely rusted), they easily turned.
>
> But one of the anchor bolts (1.125" diameter) the associated nut is
> heavily rusted, as is the bolt. Over the weekend, I applied Naval
> Rust Dissolver Gel which sort of worked. At least enough to
> demonstrate that the threads are still in tact. I also showered it
> with Liquid Wrench (several times).
>
> But even with the 6 foot long lever arm and "cautious" pressure, I
> was not able to budge the nut.
>
> I know that when nuts have "frozen" before on much smaller bolts
> (5/16" or 3/8"), I have been able to (unfortunately) break the bolt
> instead of loosing the nut while applying "lots" of rotational
> torque on the nut. While a 1.125" diameter bolt seems pretty hefty,
> I am concerned about doing the same (yeah, sounds ridiculous)..and
> then I"ll really be out of luck.
>
> Any suggestions on how to proceed?
>
> Thanks,
> de Doug KR2Q
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>
>
>
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