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Re: [TowerTalk] FW: Rotor control cable connectors

To: sunset392@cox.net, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] FW: Rotor control cable connectors
From: Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 07:34:32 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Ed, Thanks for the POC for 8 pin trailer connectors. Good price for an 8 pin connector. I have already set up two of my rotors with pairs of 4 pin connectors but over time as my 5 control boxes and 4 rotators get shuffled I will likely go with the 8 pin from that site. Until recently, when mentioned here, I was blissfully unaware that there were 8 pin trailer type connectors as the trailer parts places I have checked did not have them.

73,

Patrick NJ5G


On 5/20/2014 7:40 PM, Ed Williams wrote:
Hi All

The one that was looking for 8 pin trailer connector might check out the
following location.
http://www.delcity.net/store/8!Way-Connector-Loop/p_8776
I have bought from them and have had very good results.

73, de KN4KL/KG4KL ed

-----Original Message-----
From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of
Patrick Greenlee
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:46 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] FW: Rotor control cable connectors

Amen, MIke. It would be good to have a third hand when up a tower. With
proper climbing gear a lanyard should hold you securely to free up your
hands. It would be good to position the connector such that you can wrap
your arm around a tower component and still use the hand on that arm to hold
onto one side of the connector pair.  I never pry the trailer type
connectors apart as I have sufficient grip to pull and wiggle to get them
apart one piece in each hand.  In due time I may end up using pliers
(probably Vice Grips) to hold onto the halves.)  I tried several brick and
mortar sources but never found 8 pin trailer type connectors.
Two each 4 pin git 'er done and are likely easier to put together and pull
apart.

I am trying to set up my three towers and Hy-Gain Hy-Tower vertical such
that I NEVER have to climb them or use a ladder to work with them.
Over the years tower climbing has begun to be less fun.

73,

Patrick NJ5G


On 5/19/2014 5:59 PM, Mike wrote:
Whether you use 4, 6 or 8 pin trailer hitch type connectors, make sure
you are able to engage and more importantly, disconnect the mated
connectors with your hand.  I've used the 4, 6 and 8 pin trailer hitch
connectors sold at auto parts store and found I had to use a screw
driver to separate the connectors when fully mated.  A PITA when on top of
the tower, etc.
    73,
    Mike, K4GMH


On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Tom_N2SR via TowerTalk <
towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:

The Wireman has what you are looking for.  8 pole molded male and
female disconnect.


https://www.thewireman.com/prodpix6.html

I do not own The Wireman, nor do I work for them, therefore I have no
interest.  Just passing on information.


Tom, N2SR



On Monday, May 19, 2014 11:01 AM, Patrick Greenlee <
patrick_g@windstream.net> wrote:

Matt, That is certainly a good pro way to handle the problem (older
persons substitute word for "issue.") I am doing essentially the same
thing at the terminal strip, exiting that terminal strip area with a
made up cable (separate insulated wires with a couple layers of
shrink over them and plenty of silicon rubber (RTV) inside over the
terminal strip.  Nicee and weather proof.  Where you went with a
J-box and internal terminal strip, I wnet with a pair of 4 pin polarized
"flat 4"
trailer connectors.; With a few wraps of tape and some RTV and you
are weatherproof. Coax seal is even easier to put on and take off and
would work good.as well.

Comparing the two approaches is like arguing whether it is 50 cents or a
half dollar.   With a note paper inside the J-box as a reminder of what
color wire goes to which number terminal (unless of course the other
cable is same colors) and you are in business.  About the only
advantage I could claim is a little cost and the ability to connect
and disconnect in the dark without needing a third or fourth hand and
a light.  I do not intend to be plugging and unplugging in the dark
and the savings won't buy much these days.

73,

Patrick NJ5G
On 5/18/2014 10:53 PM, Matt wrote:
Hi Patrick,

Just another take on the chronic problem with the older terminal block
design that you mention...   My solution was to replace the terminal
strip
with a blank-off plate through which I passed a short whip that
extends
the
rotor wiring out to a weatherproof external J-box which houses the
terminal
strip.  I use small compression nuts that are similar to seal-tight
connectors at the blank-off plate and the J-box.   J box is mounted to
one
of the tower legs which also makes accessing the terminal strip a
lot easier.

Matt
KM5VI




I was looking for connectors to add to older HY-Gain rotors using 8
wires.
My new production unit came with connectors  but the older units use
an 8 position terminal strip that is not so wonderfully weather
proofed.  So
you
get your unit refurbed or it is still working fine  but still has
the old terminal strip... not satisfactory...

So I'm searching Mouser, Digi Key etc and then...  and then... the
little over my head light came on, dimly but noticeably illuminated.
Flat 4 pin trailer connectors for hooking up the lights on a trailer
to
be
towed.  Need 8 pins.  Connector has 4 pins. One side is 3 males and
a
female
and the mating connector is 3 female pins and a male. Take one of
each
male
and female and using the supplied pigtails put on ring terminals and
install
the pair of flat connectors to the terminal strip.  Flood the
terminal
strip
with Silicon rubber (RTV) or your favorite weather proofer and put
on the cover.  Another pair of connectors terminates your cable run
at the
rotator
end.

This gives you polarized connector action. You can't plug the cable
run
from
the controller into the wrong connectors at the rotator. The trailer
type flat 4 pin connectors are made to be exposed to the elements in
their
normal
application.  I like belt and suspender type weather proofing so...
Wrap the connectors with tape or coax seal or whatever you prefer to
boost the weather resistance if you are worried that these
inexpensive connectors could do a good job. Electrical tape and a
little RTV does a marvelous
job
and is easy enough to remove if the need arises.

I kinow, I know, no material certs, no mil-spec, NIH, too
inexpensive to
be
good etc etc...

73,

Patrick NJ5G
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