Actually it would be impossible to put a lug between the cooler and the
anode of the GS-35B. The cooler has a precision machined taper that
fits the top SIDES of the anode. There is no physical connection between
the cooler and the top of the anode. The inside top of the anode is a
larger hole with a flange which a large flat washer fits and which the
anode threaded stud goes through. Above that there is another smaller
flat washer and a split lock washer. Then the round threaded nut pulls
all that down against the cooler's flange bringing the SIDE taper into
solid contact with the side of the anode. Since the large round threaded
nut on top is threaded all the way through, it is possible to put a
metric screw (m10 x 12mm)into the top of the threads. As Kim pointed
out to me in a private email, it really isn't a good idea to have the
hot air from the anode exit and blow onto the tank because of the
thermal instability that it can cause and will be particularly
noticeable on six meters and above.
73, Tony W4ZT
Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
>> ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
>>
>> On Sat, 5 Aug 2006 08:27:35 +0100, Ian wrote:
>>
>>
>>> People do that... but just because you can remove the anode cooler of a
>>> GS35/31 or GI-7, that doesn't make it a good idea.
>> ------------ REPLY SEPARATOR ------------
>>
>> You misunderstand.
>>
>> I ddin't remove the fins at all, only the bolt that holds them in
>> place. The cooling is not affected by the presence or absence of the
>> bolt; its only function is to secure the fins. When I put the lug
>> under the bolt and retightened it, things are just as they were
>> before. There is almost no heat flow through the bolt itself.
>
> Apologies, Bill. I see what you mean now.
>
> The potential problem is only when a strap or a plate line is sandwiched
> *between* the tube and the cooler
>
>
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